Languages Mostly Used for Work:
Ideal Working Season:
All year round
Tropical in south; monsoonal in north with hot, rainy season (May to September) and warm, dry season (October to March)
Indochina Time (UTC+7), Summer (DST) no DST (UTC+7)
Unitary Marxist-Leninist one-party state
Buddhist 7.9%, Catholic 6.6%, none 81.8%
Vietnam (Việt Nam), officially the Socialist Republic of Vietnam (Cộng hòa Xã hội Chủ nghĩa Việt Nam) is a long, thin country in Southeast Asia. Its neighbouring countries are China to the north, Laos and Cambodia to the west.
Once a lesser-known destination, Vietnam has become widely popular in recent years. With Hanoi consistently ranked among the world’s top 10 destinations by TripAdvisor, one can now find European tourists as far as in Ha Giang, one of the most remote mountainous provinces.
Vietnam’s history is one of war, colonisation and rebellion.
Occupied by China no fewer than four times, the Vietnamese managed to fight off the invaders just as often. At various points during these thousand years of imperial dynasties, Vietnam was ravaged and divided by civil wars and repeatedly attacked by the Songs, Mongols, Yuans, Chams, Mings, Dutch, Qings, French and the Americans. The victories mostly belonged to the Vietnamese but, even during the periods in history when Vietnam was independent, it was mostly a tributary state to China until the French colonisation. Vietnam’s last emperors were theNguyễn Dynasty, who ruled from their capital at Huế from 1802 to 1945, although France exploited the succession crisis after the fall of Tự Đức to de facto colonise Vietnam after 1884. Both the Chinese occupation and French colonisation have left a lasting impact on Vietnamese culture, with Confucianism forming the basis of Vietnamese social etiquette, and the French leaving a lasting imprint on Vietnamese cuisine.
After a brief Japanese occupation in World War II, the Communist Việt Minh under the leadership of Hồ Chí Minhcontinued the insurgency against the French, with the last Emperor Bảo Đại abdicating in 1945 and a proclamation of independence following soon after. The majority of French had left by 1945, but in 1946 they returned to continue the fight until their decisive defeat at Điện Biên Phủ in 1954. The Geneva Conference partitioned the country into two at the 17th parallel of latitude, with a Communist-led North and Ngô Đình Diệm declaring himself President of the Republic of Vietnam in the South.
Fighting between South Vietnam and the North Vietnamese-backed Việt Cộng escalated into what became known as the Vietnam War – although the Vietnamese officially refer to it as the American War. US economic and military aid to South Vietnam grew through the 1960s in an attempt to bolster the Southern Vietnam government, escalating into the dispatch of half a million American troops in 1966. What was supposed to be a quick and decisive action soon degenerated into a quagmire and US armed forces were only withdrawn following a cease-fire agreement in 1973. Two years later, on 30 April 1975, a North Vietnamese tank drove into the South’s Presidential Palace in Ho Chi Minh City and the war ended with the conquest of South Vietnam. An estimated 800,000 to 3 million Vietnamese and over 55 thousand Americans had been killed.
The Vietnam war was only one of many that the Vietnamese have fought, but it was the most brutal in its history.
Over two thirds of the current population was born after 1975. American tourists will receive a particularly friendly welcome in Vietnam, as many young Vietnamese imitate American customs and venerate US pop culture.
Vietnam is a one party authoritarian state, with the President as the Head of State, and the Prime Minister as the Head of Government. The Vietnamese legislature is the unicameral National Assembly, from which the Prime Minister is selected. In practice, the President’s position is only ceremonial, with the Prime Minister wielding the most authority in government, although the General Secretary is considered to exercise a considerable amount of power, too.
Economic reconstruction of the reunited country has proven difficult. After the failures of the state-run economy started to become apparent, the country launched a program of Đổi Mới (renovation), introducing elements of capitalism. The policy has proved highly successful, with Vietnam recording near 10% growth yearly (except for a brief interruption during the Asian economic crisis of 1997). The economy is much stronger than those of Cambodia, Laos, and other neighbouring developing countries. Like most Communist countries around the world, there is a fine balance between allowing foreign investors and opening up the market.
In practical terms, you’ll find rampant capitalism at the “retail” level, with shopkeepers and sellers from carts exercising great flexibility in pricing and how they do business. As those business people go up levels of permissions to operate (e.g., where they do business), government controls quickly take over.
There used to be extreme restrictions on foreigners owning property or attempting to sell. However, a new property regulation announced on 1 July 2015 now allows foreigners to own and lease apartments in Vietnam.
It is very difficult for them to trade without negotiating ‘fees’. Business can be done via local partnerships with all the attendant risks.
Power and services is another issue. There are often ‘rolling blackouts’ when there is not enough electricity at times. For this reason, many shops have portable generators.
According to government estimates Vietnam sees 3.3m tourist arrivals each year. Vietnam has a return rate of just 6% compared to Thailand’s whopping 50%.
Most people in Vietnam are ethnic Vietnamese (Kinh), though there is a sizeable ethnic Chinese community in Ho Chi Minh City, most who are descended from migrants from Guangdong province and are hence bilingual in Cantonese or other Chinese dialects and Vietnamese. There are also numerous other ethnic groups who occupy the mountainous parts of the country, such as the Hmong, Muong and Yao people. There is also a minority ethnic group in the lowlands near the border with Cambodia known as the Khmer Krom.
Buddhism, mostly of the Mahayana school, is the single largest religion in Vietnam, with over 85% of Vietnamese people identifying themselves as Buddhist. Catholicism is the second largest religion, followed by the local Cao Đài religion. Other Christian denominations, Islam, and local religions also share small followings throughout the southern and central areas.
Due to its long history as a tributary state of China, as well as several periods of Chinese occupations, Vietnamese culture is heavily influenced by that of Southern China, with Confucianism forming the basis of Vietnamese society. The Vietnamese language also contains many loan words from Chinese, though the two languages are unrelated. Buddhism remains the single largest religion in Vietnam, though like in China but unlike in the rest of northern Southeast Asia, the dominant school of Buddhism in Vietnam is the Mahayana School.
Nevertheless, Vietnamese culture remains distinct from Chinese culture as it has also absorbed cultural elements from neighbouring Hindu civilizations such as the Champa and the Khmer empires. The French colonization has also left a lasting impact on Vietnamese society, with baguettes and coffee remaining popular among locals.
Vietnam is large enough to have several distinct climate zones.
- The Northhas four distinct seasons, with a comparatively chilly winter (temperatures can dip below 15°C/59°F in Hanoi), a hot and wet summer and pleasant spring (March-April) and autumn (October-December) seasons. However, in the Highlands both extremes are amplified, with occasional snow in the winter and temperatures hitting 40°C (104°F) in the summer.
- In the Centralregions the Hải Vân Pass separates two different weather patterns of the North starting in Lăng Cô (which is hotter in summer and cooler in winter) from the milder conditions South starting in Đà Nẵng. North East Monsoon conditions September – February with often strong winds, large sea swells and rain make this a miserable and difficult time to travel through Central Vietnam. Normally summers are hot and dry.
- The Southhas three somewhat distinct seasons: hot and dry from March to May/June; rainy from June/July to November; and cool and dry from December to February. April is the hottest month, with mid-day temperatures of 33°C (91°F) or more most days. During the rainy season, downpours can happen every afternoon, and occasional street flooding occurs. Temperatures range from stifling hot before a rainstorm to pleasantly cool afterwards. Mosquitoes are most numerous in the rainy season. December to February is the most pleasant time to visit, with cool evenings down to around 20° (68°F).
By far the largest holiday of the year is Tết, celebration of the New Year (as marked by the lunar calendar), which takes place between late January and March on the Western calendar and usually coincides with the Chinese New Year.
Lunar New Year dates
The year of the Horse started on 31 Jan 2014· The year of the Goat will begin on 19 Feb 2015· The year of the Monkey will begin on 8 Feb 2016
· The year of the Rooster will begin on 28 Jan 2017
In the period leading up to Tết, the country is abuzz with preparations. Men on motorbikes rush around delivering potted tangerine trees and flowering bushes, the traditional household decorations. People get a little bit stressed out and the elbows get sharper, especially in big cities, where the usual hectic level of traffic becomes almost homicidal. Then a few days before Tết the pace begins to slow down, as thousands of city residents depart for their ancestral home towns in the provinces. Finally on the first day of the new year an abrupt transformation occurs: the streets become quiet, almost deserted. Nearly all shops and restaurants close for three days, (the exception being a few that cater especially to foreign visitors; and hotels operate as usual.)
In the major cities, streets are decorated with lights and public festivities are organized which attract many thousands of residents. But for Vietnamese, Tết is mostly a private, family celebration. On the eve of the new year, families gather together and exchange good wishes (from more junior to more senior) and gifts of “lucky money” (from more senior to more junior). In the first three days of the year, the daytime hours are devoted to visiting — houses of relatives on the first day, closest friends and important colleagues on the second day, and everyone else on the third day. Many people also visit pagodas. The evening hours are spent drinking and gambling (men) or chatting, playing, singing karaoke, and enjoying traditional snacks and candy (women and children.)
Visiting Vietnam during Tết has good points and bad points. On the minus side: modes of transport are jammed just before the holiday as many Vietnamese travel to their home towns; hotels fill up, especially in smaller towns; and your choice of shopping and dining is severely limited in the first days of the new year (with a few places closed up to two weeks). In Saigon, most shops are closed for a whole week after new years day. Restaurants may charge a higher than normal price, e.g. adding a 20% “Happy New Year” fee. Beware that crowded places are ideal for pickpockets. On the plus side, you can observe the preparations and enjoy the public festivities; pagodas are especially active; no admission is charged to those museums and historical sites that stay open; and the foreigner-oriented travel industry of backpacker buses and resort hotels chugs along as usual. Visitors also stand a chance of being invited to join the festivities, especially if you have some local connections or manage to make some Vietnamese friends during your stay. When visiting during Tết, it’s wise to get settled somewhere at least two days before the new year, and don’t try to move again until a couple of days after.
Lesser holidays include:
- New Year1 January.
- Hùng Kings’ Festival(Giỗ tổ Hùng Vương) on the 10th day of the 3rd lunar month commemorating the first kings of Vietnam.
- Liberation Day(Ngày giải phóng miền Nam) on 30 April, marking the fall of Saigon in 1975.
- International Workers’ Day(Ngày Quốc tế Lao động) 1 May, the traditional socialist labour day. Around those times (Vietnamese often call 30 Apr-1 May holiday – the second longest holiday after Tết), trains and planes tend to be sold out, and accommodations at holiday destionations are hard to find. Best to book far in advance.
- National Day(Quốc khánh) 2 September.
|Northern Vietnam (Hanoi, Bac Ha, Ba Be National Park, Cao Bang, Cat Ba, Cuc Phuong National Park, Dien Bien Phu, Dong Dang, Dong Hoi, Ha Long Bay, Haiphong, Lao Cai, Ninh Binh, Ha Giang, Sapa, Bac Giang , Son La)
Harbours some of the most magnificent views of Vietnam as well as the capital city, the iconic Ha Long Bay and the chance to visit indigenous hill tribes.
|Central Coast (Cham Islands, Da Nang, DMZ, Dong Hoi, Dong Ha, Hoi An, Lang Co, Hue, My Son, Na Meo, Nha Trang, Qui Nhon, Thanh Hoa, Vinh)
The ancient city of Hue is the home of the still recent Vietnamese kings and in Hoi An features one of the nicest old seacoast towns in Vietnam.
|Central Highlands (Buon Ma Thuot, Dalat, Kontum, Ngoc Hoi, Pleiku)
Lush forest-covered hills featuring indigenous tribes and the occasional elephant.
|Southern Vietnam (Cat Tien National Park, Con Dao, Can Tho, Chau Doc , Cu Chi, Ho Chi Minh City, Long Xuyen, Mui Ne, My Tho, Phan Thiet, Phu Quoc, Vung Tau, Tay Ninh, Vinh Long, Tra Vinh, Ben Tre)
The economic engine of Vietnam, built around Ho Chi Minh City but also covering the lush and little-visited Mekong Delta, the rice basket of Vietnam.
- Hanoi(Hà Nội) – the capital and second largest city
- Ha Giang(Hà Giang) – the north pole province with amazing scenery
- Haiphong(Hải Phòng) – the third largest city and a major port in north Vietnam
- Dalat(Đà Lạt) – largest city in the highlands
- Ho Chi Minh City(Thành phố Hồ Chí Minh) – the largest city and the main economic centre of Vietnam, formerly Saigon (Sài Gòn)
- Hoi An(Hội An) – delightfully well-preserved ancient port near the ruins of Mỹ Sơn
- Da Nang(Đà Nẵng) – the fifth largest city, the most important city of the central coast
- Hue(Huế) – former home of Vietnam’s emperors
- Dong Hoi(Đồng Hới) – Use to be destroyed by bom during Vietnam war
- Nha Trang– burgeoning beach resort
- Phan Thiet(Phan Thiết) – “the resort capital” with Mui Ne beach
- Vinh– the major city in north central Vietnam with Cua Lo beach
- Can Tho– the fourth largest city and the center of the Mekong Delta
- Cat Tien National Park– jungle, rare primates, birds and crocodiles, 3 hours from Saigon
- Con Dao(Côn Đảo) – island off the Mekong Delta
- Cu Chi(Củ Chi) – site of the Cu Chi Tunnels
- Cuc Phuong National Park– home to some of Asia’s rarest wildlife and the Muong hill tribe
- The DMZ
- Dong Van(Đồng Văn) – Dong Van Karst Plateau Geo Park is unique combination between Geoheritages and cutural heritages
- Ha Long Bay(Vịnh Hạ Long) – famous for its unearthly scenery
- Kontum– relaxed little town providing access to a number of ethnic minority villages
- My Son– ancient Hindu ruins which are a a UNESCO World Heritage Site
- Phong Nha-Ke Bang(Quảng Binh) – the most beautiful, magnificent & magic cave in South East Asia
- Tam Coc(Tam Cốc) – un Ninh Binh province south of Hanoi with Ha Long Bay-like scenery
- Moc Chau(Mộc Châu) – hightland Moc Chau is travel experience
- Quang Ngai– My Lai Massacre Museum
Visitors with passports from these countries do not require a visa for stays up to the days specified:
- 14 days – Brunei
- 15 days – Belarus, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Japan, Norway, Russia, South Korea,Spain, Sweden, United Kingdom(note: for France, Germany, Spain, Italy and the UK, the visa exemption program which was ending on June 30th 2016 has been extended until June 30th 2017)
- 21 days – Philippines
- 30 days – Indonesia, Laos, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, Cambodia
All other nationalities will require a visa in advance to visit Vietnam.
You can pick up a visa for Vietnam in a bewildering variety of places for a varying amount of money and different response times. Below is a catalog of various experiences at various times.
If purchasing your visa from the Vietnamese embassy in London, as of January 2013 a 30-day single entry visa will cost you £54 (£69 for 2 day service, £75 for next day), while a 30 days multiple entry visa costs £85 (£105 for 2 day service, £115 for next day). You must also pay up to £8 postage per passport (depending on how many are being processed) if you need it posted back to you.
Wellington, New Zealand
If purchasing from the embassy of Vietnam in Wellington, New Zealand, as of May 2014, a 30-day single entry visa will cost $120, 30 day multiple entry for $140, $220 for a 90 day single entry and $240 for a 90 day multiple entry. In person or by post. If by post, enclose a paid for courier bag. Either way, processing time around 3 days.
In Cambodia, Vietnam visas can be obtained at the embassy in Phnom Penh or at the consulates in Battambang and Sihanoukville. The uniform cost for a 30 day visa is US$40usd (December 2015, travel agencies lie claiming its US$60) Visa processing officially takes 48 hours in Phnom Penh and Battambang. On the spot visa issuance is only possible in Sihanoukville. Travel agencies can obtain the visa for you for a fee (US$1-5).
(December 2015) consulate can issue a visa on a separate document (saves a page on your passport).
The consulate in Vientiane, Laos, offers them for US$70 with delivery the day after (paying in local currency is more expensive).
The consulate in Luang Prabang, Laos at 427-428 That Bosot Village (19°53′08.36″N 102°07′46.95″E) offers a visa service. Office hours M-F 07:30-11:30 & 13:30-16:30 Tel 254748 / 254749 Fax:-254746 Email:- firstname.lastname@example.org. It’s better to do your visa here than going to agents, as agents charge an extra USD15. Visa price is USD40 and takes 3 working days. Go to the Tourist Information for the location if you’re not sure, they will be able to help you. It’s only a 10min walk from the Tourist Information. October 2012: the clerk who fills out the receipt asks for an additional US$5 (or LAK40,000) for the handling.
Overall, the Vietnamese Consulate in Luang Prabang seems to offer one of the cheapest if not the cheapest Visas to Vietnam. Visa fees in USD in Luang Prabang as of December 2016 are as follows (no paper copies or photos were allowed to be taken of them):
|Processing time||30 Days Single Entry||30 Days Multiple Entry||90 Days Single Entry||90 Days Multiple Entry|
April 2014: using the Vietnamese Consulate of Pakse (Southern Laos) will cost you US$70 (!) and 3 working days…
Vietnam Embassy in Bangkok is on Thanon Witthayu (AKA Wireless Road), near the other embassies. It’s a quick process (10-15 minutes) as long as there isn’t a queue. Nov 2012 – Vietnam Embassy in Bangkok charges 1,800 baht (c. US$62) for a 30-day single-entry visa, 4 working days. 2,700 baht for 30-day single-entry visa, next (Working) day. Bear in mind that if you go on a Friday, you still have to wait until Monday to get your visa even if you paid for next day. If you don’t have a passport photo, go out of the embassy, turn left and a hundred metres up the road on the left is a big shopping centre, called All Season’s Place. On the 3rd floor there is a Kodak shop called Sprint Photo Fast which will do 6 passport/visa photos for 120 baht. Make SURE to tell them it’s for a Vietnam visa as passport photos and visa are different sizes for different countries. Vietnam requires a 2 in x 2 in photo. If staying on Khao San road (which a lot of travellers/backpackers do), taxi /tuk tuk drivers may be unwilling to take you here on the meter, especially close to rush hour, as it is quite far and in an awkward place on the one way system. They’d rather scam a couple other people in the same time it would take.
The Vietnamese Consulate in Khon Kaen, Thailand, also offers tourist visas. (UPDATED: March 2013) A single entry tourist visa valid for 30 days costs 2500 baht. A single entry 3-month tourist visa costs 4000 baht. A multiple entry, 3-month visa costs 5500 baht. The consulate only accepts Thai baht in cash (no other currencies or credit cards). Visas can be picked up the same day if submitted in the morning. If submitted in the afternoon, you can pick up your visa the next morning. The consulate is closed on weekends. Some consular staff speak English. You will need a passport photo (bring 2 just in case), application form (available at the consulate), and payment.
May 2015 – next (working) day no longer appears to be an option; cost is 2,450 baht(~US$70) and takes 4 working days. Drop-off from 9-11:30 and 13:30-16:30; pick-up after 15:00 or 16:00 (seems to change). Check the website for holidays; the office is closed on both Vietnamese and Thai public holidays (i.e., a lot). Honestly despite the scaremongering you are better off doing visa on arrival if you are flying in.
China – You can get a visa from nearby Nanning or Kunming (additionally to Beijing and other reported major cities). Kunming regular 1 month single-entry tourist visa costs CNY400 for standard 3 days process or add CNY150 for same day service (submit morning, receive at 17:00). ☎ +86 871 6352-2669. Nanning regular 1 month single-entry tourist visa costs CNY450, but(!) you can ask them to pre-arrange your visa by emailing them the needed information (passports scans and application form). email@example.com ☎ +86 771 5510 561/560. M- F 9:00-12:00 & 14:00-17:30. No 55 Jinhu Road, on the west side of Wuxiang Square, (Yahang Centre Building with red China Bank on the ground floor) Nanning. The Consulate is on the 27th Floor, and get ready for a long line for the elevator in the morning at the building. (Nov 2014)
May 2014 – The Vietnam Economic and Cultural Office in Taipei also offers visa services, both to Taiwan residents and tourists in Taiwan. Address is 65 Songjiang Lu, hours M-F 8:30-12 & 14-16:30. You only need your passport, application form, and one passport photo (No ARC required, even “high risk” nationalities such as Pakistani citizens don’t need any other documentation or approval letter). Visa price is 1850 TWD for standard Single entry – 30 days, 3 day processing. Same day and next day processing is available, along with multiple entries for a higher price.
November 2010 – the Vietnamese Mission to the UN in New York City charges US$80 for a 30-day single-entry visa. Cash or money order is accepted. Processing takes 6 business days. Expedited service (4 business days) is available for US$110.
June 2012 – a single-entry tourist visa valid for 30 days costs USD90 at Washington DC and takes around 4-7 days to process; express visas take 2-3 days for an additional USD30. A multiple entry, 1 month visa is US$140 and multiple entry, 3 month visa is US$170.
February 2013 – The Consulate General of Vietnam in San Francisco, United States charges US$100 for a 30-day single entry visa. Cash or money order is accepted. December 2015 – Prices seem to have changed, USD100 for a 90 day single entry.
December 14, 2015 – the Vietnamese Consulate in NYC charges USD135 for a 30-day multiple entry visa (USD80 for a 30-day single entry).
April 13, 2014 – The Consulate General of Vietnam in Vancouver, Canada charges CAD100 for a 30-day single entry visa.
November 2010 – Vietnam Embassy in Canberra, Australia charges AUS$75 for a 30 day single entry visa. Approx 3 days to process. Other consular services at this embassy have been reported as slow and costly (4 weeks for Ex-Vietnamese seeking 5 year Visa exceptions – and the passport must have 5 years of life left). As of September 2015, the cost is AUS$95, and they only accept cash or cheque (Vietnamese Embassy, Sydney).
November 2016 – the Vietnamese Embassy in Kuala Lumpur charges MYR235 for a 30 day single entry visa, will return the passport by 2 PM the following day if received early on the preceding day, 10 AM in our case.
January 2015–The Consulate General of Vietnam in Hong Kong can issue visas within 2 working days. A single-entry, 30 day visa with 2 working day service costs $580 HKD. Next working day ($640 HKD) and same-day ($720) service are also available. Longer term and multiple-entry visas are also available (up to 6 months w/ multiple entries for $3000 HKD–2 working days, +200 HKD for same-day service).
February 20, 2015 – the Vietnamese Embassy in Singapore charges SGD105 (about US$85) for a 30 days single entry visa, 6 working days to process
March 17, 2015 – the Vietnamese Embassy in Singapore charges SGD155 ( about USD110) for a 30 days single entry visa for Indian passport. 6 working days to process
Embassies are recalcitrant in publishing a schedule of fees, as the relatively high visa cost is a source of embarrassment, revenue, and a tourism deterrent (EU and US). A slowdown in tourist number arrivals has been disguised by the removal of visa fees for certain nationalities (but not former Vietnamese) resulting in neighbouring countries numbers filling the vacuum. Visa free travel for neighbouring countries is part of Vietnam’s commitment to visa free travel for fellow citizens of ASEAN (The Association of South East Asian Nations)
Foreign citizens of Vietnamese origin can apply for visa exemption that allows multiple entry for 3 months at a time which is valid for the duration of the passport.
Visa on arrival
This method is available only for Air travel.
The term visa on arrival is a bit of a misnomer in the case of Vietnam as a letter of approval has to be obtained before arrival. This is handled by a growing number of on-line agencies for a charge of USD10-21 (Aug 2014). Most agencies accept payment by credit card, some accept payment by Western Union or Paypal. You also have to pay stamp fee at the airport when arrival. You need 1 photo.
The visa on arrival fees 2015-2016
Note: From 29 August 2016, all visas will be issued in 1-year-visa multiple entry is granted for US citizens with maximum 90 days of stay per one entry to Vietnam. The stamping fee at Vietnam airport for US citizens will be $135 USD
- One month – single entry USD25
- One month – multiple entry USD50
- Three months – single entry costs the same with one month single entry
- Three months – multiple entry USD50
- Six months – multiple entry USD135
The Foreign and Commonwealth Office of Her Majesty’s Government in London states “We are aware that there are nearly 1000 travel companies that are able to arrange legitimate visas-on-arrival but this must be done prior to arrival in Vietnam. There have also been reports of bogus companies that claim to be able to arrange for a visa on arrival. As the British Embassy and Consulate cannot confirm whether a company has a legitimate arrangement in place, the safest way to obtain a visa is via the nearest Vietnamese Embassy. Vietnamese visas are usually valid for only one entry. If you plan to leave Vietnam and re-enter from another country make sure you obtain a visa allowing multiple entries.”
The situation is complicated by the fact that the Internet high level domain “gov.vn” does not necessarily denote a government agency!
The agent – located in Vietnam – obtains from the Department of Immigration a letter of approval bearing the traveller’s name, date of birth, date of arrival, nationality and passport number, and then forwards that letter to the traveller (in PDF or JPEG format) by email or fax, usually within three working days. It is common to get the letter with several other applicants passport details (passport number, date and place of birth, full name, etc.). You might share your personal information with up to 10-30 other applicants on the same letter(s). For persons who are concerned about their privacy or security, it is recommended to check first if the agencies have an option for a separate or private approval letter (Private Vietnam visa on arrival) on their website. Very few on-line agencies have this option. Another solution is to apply for a regular visa through an embassy to keep your personal details private.
After landing at one of the three international airports (Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Da Nang), the traveller goes to the “Landing Visa Counter” before the passport control and shows the letter, fills in an additional arrival form (can be pre-filled before departure), provide a photo and receives a visa sticker in his or her passport. As of Sep 2015 a visa fee in cash, of US$45 or US$65 for a single or multiple entry visa respectively, is payable at the time – only U.S. dollars or VND are accepted (no other currency or credit card) and the notes must be in reasonably good condition or they will be refused. One passport photo is required (often 4X6 cm). For $2 they can take a photo for you.
Note that visas on arrival are not valid for arrival at the land crossings, and the official visa stamp can only be obtained at the three international airports. Therefore, travellers arriving by land from Cambodia, Laos or China must be in possession of a full visa when they arrive at the border.
A third alternative, ‘Visa Code’ appears to be another option [More references needed] where on-line approval is first obtained – with a code, then you take the passport to the Embassy for the visa to be ‘stamped’. The cost for service fee is cheaper than at the embassy in Europe or America. In Asia the cost will be almost the same as the regular total visa fee. However, you will avoid to go back and forth to the embassy.
Passengers of Air Asia and some other airlines travelling to Vietnam must present the approval letter at check-in.
Vietnam has moved away from arrival/departure cards.
Depending on the present level of SARS and avian flu you may be subjected to a so-called health-check, which as of Sep 2015 consist only from a thermal scanner you pass through on your way to passport control; there are no forms to fill.
Prior to 2015 it was relatively simple (and inexpensive) to obtain a one-time, 30 day extension to your standard single-entry tourist visa. This is no longer the case! As of May 2015, obtaining a 30 day extension took 10 days and cost US$185 – although the stamp still states “10 (mười) USD”. Similarly, overstaying your visa has become considerably more expensive (on the order of USD50/day).
Vietnam has international airports at Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, and Da Nang. Non-stop flights are available from Australia, Cambodia, China, France, Germany, The Netherlands, Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Laos, Malaysia, Philippines, Poland, Russia, Singapore, Brunei, Thailand, Taiwan, Indonesia, Macau,Qatar, Turkey, Dubai and the U.S. However, most direct flights are served by flag carrier Vietnam Airlines while plenty of other long-haul flights are available with transits via Bangkok, Doha, Dubai, Hong Kong, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Taipei.
Hue airport (HUI) is also classified as international, but currently (2015) has no international departures/arrivals.
There are direct international train services from Nanning and Beijing in China to Hanoi. Most require a change of trains at the border at Pingxiang/Dong Dang, but the Chinese-operated daily Nanning express (T8701/MR2) runs through, although it still spends about four hours at the border for immigration.
The daily train from Nanning starts around 18:00 and arrives around 05:00 to Hanoi. Hard Sleeper c. CNY180 and soft sleeper c. CNY295. (You can consider taking the bus from Nanning instead which is a cheaper and pretty convenient day journey.
The Kunming-Hanoi line was shut down by landslides in 2002 and, as of 2011, remains closed. There are no train links to Laos or Cambodia.
Several Ho Chi Minh to Phnom Penh bus operators, such as Kumho Samco, scam foreign tourists by charging an extra US$5 for the Cambodian visa on arrival. Not agreeing to the extra charge and attempting to obtain the visa independently will result in being stranded at the border without your belongings. Mekong Express runs same fee plus drops passengers a few km south of downtown PP and tries to scam $12 for taxi by claiming “so far” away. MaiLinh Bus companies are the most reliable and reputable businesses operating on this route.*However, you might as well take the $5 charge as additional “service fee” not included to the ticket price. Vietnamese border control in Moc Bai is just a huge badly organised mess when the buses from HCMC to Phnom Penh arrive around the same time. It seems than in order to speed up the process it has become customary for the bus companies to collect the passengers’ passports and hand them all together over to the officials. When the passports are stamped your name will be called by the same bus company’s representative who collected your passport and hand it over back to you. Its up to you whether you will condone to this “scam” and let yourself cross the border as smooth as possible given the circumstances, or save yourself the “service fee” and spend much longer time at the border control, likely missing your bus. This is the only fee charged by the bus companies and it is not related to Cambodian Visa in any form.
The main crossing is the Moc Bai/Bavet crossing on the Ho Chi Minh City – Phnom Penhroad. Buses between the two cities cost USD-12 and take around 6 hr. Passengers vacate the vehicle at both countries’ checkpoints. Only one passport photo is required for a Cambodian visa on arrival. Tours of the Mekong Delta (USD25-35, 2-3 days) can provide a more insightful journey between the two cities.
Close to the coast is the Xa Xia/Prek Chak border. Cambodian visas are available on arrival. Buses run between Ha Tien in Vietnam to Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh in Cambodia. The Vietnamese consulate in Sihanoukville issues 30-day tourist visas on a same-day basis.
Coastal areas are also served by the Tinh Bien/Phnom Den border near Chau Doc in Vietnam
There are three border crossings between China and Vietnam that can be used by foreigners:
- Dongxing – Mong Cai (by road; onward travel Mong Cai to Ha Longby sea or by road)
- Hekou – Lao Cai (by road and/or rail, but no international passenger train services)
- Youyi Guan – Huu Nghi Quan (Friendship Pass – by road and/or rail)
There are several Day buses from Nanning running every day, at least at 10:00 and 13:50 and costs about CNY160 (Nov 2014), reaching Hanoi at evening (around 22:00 although in China they may tell you the arrival is before 22:00), with a break for less than an hour to cross the border and transfer buses – all arranged in the ticket and no further hassle or arrangements by yourself. This may be more convenient than the night train from Nanning to Hanoi at 18:00 reaching Hanoi around 05:00, which is also more expensive. The ride itself is picturesque, and you receive a water bottle and some snacks at the bus. At the border crossing there are money changing ladies trying to get your dollars or renminbi for a deal.
There are at least six border crossings between Laos and Vietnam that can be used by foreigners.
Be wary of catching local buses from Laos to Vietnam. Not only are they often crammed with cargo (coal and live chickens, often underfoot) but many buses run in the middle of the night, stopping for several hours in order to wait for the border to open at 07:00. Whilst waiting, you will be herded off the bus (for several hours) where you will be approached by pushy locals offering assistance in getting a Laos exit stamp in exchange for money (usually USD5+). If you bargain hard (tiring, at 04:00) you can get the figure down to about USD2. The men will take your passports, which can be incredibly disconcerting, but will actually provide the service they promise. It is better to get the Laos exit stamp yourself for free at the border station. The sleeping bus from Vientaine to Hanoi is fairly nice as all cargo is stored in the cargo hold and you are allowed to sleep in the bus at the border crossing until it opens at 7AM. There is also a VIP bus from Savannakhet.
- Donsavanh – Lao Bao
- Kaew Neua – Cau Treo (Keo Nua Pass)
- Nam Can ( Vietnam ) to Xieng Khuang ( Laos )
- Tay Trang ( Vietnam ) to Phong Sa Ly ( Laos )
Boats can be taken from Phnom Penh to the Vietnamese border town of Chau Doc. Such a journey takes roughly 5 hours and includes brief stops both to exit Cambodia and enter Vietnam. Make sure you carry a few US dollars to tip the boat porters with, so as to avoid losing your luggage in the Mekong when alighting or changing boats.
Longer tours lasting multiple days may also be available from Phnom Penh. Check with your accommodation provider or along Sisowath Quay.
When searching for flights, make sure to check directly with the carrier or that your favorite flight search engine is set to Vietnam. Otherwise you risk paying up to $100 more than necessary.
Traveling by plane is cheap and fast. For longer distances it is probably the best way to get around. The trip from Hanoi to HCMC will take about 2 hours by plane. There are many flights connecting the two largest cities, Hanoi and HCMC, to major towns such as Da Nang, Hai Phong, Can Tho, Hue, Nha Trang, Da Lat, Phu Quoc.
There are several domestic carriers in Vietnam:
Vietnam Airlines, a SkyTeam alliance member, is probably the best and most comfortable airline in Vietnam. Passengers are generally allowed to take one free checked bag up to 22 kgs and one free cabin bag up to 7 kg plus a laptop bag or a handbag. Also the carry-on weight is rarely enforced as long as the bag size looks reasonable.
On some flights they serve drinks and sandwiches, on other shorter routes they only serve water.
Book via its website as Expedia and others seem to only show Class Y fares for domestic routes – which are the most expensive fares – and if you book early, you can get many cheap deals (“Super Saver”). A flight between SGN and HAN should cost about 1.600.000 VND (70 USD). Planes are usually quite new Airbus A320s, and there is reasonable legroom space. This airline is mostly on-time, and delays are rare.
VietJetAir is a private low cost carrier. This airline is infamously nickanamed locally as “DelayJet” as most of its flights are invariantly delayed, often for many hours and more. While it appears to have more flights available when booking, it is simply a marketing trick – in reality most of those flights would be merged together into one or two flights, typically leaving many hours after your initial departure time. So instead of flying 6 times a day on the route, there would be one or two flights only packing the passengers from all 6 itineraries. VietJet calls it “rescheduling”, and you can get your first “rescheduling” notification sometime just hours after purchasing the flight. Flights are also occasionally cancelled, although this is less frequent now – as in case of cancellation the refund is due, while no refund or any kind of compensation is due in case of any flight delays. Occasionally you are notified about the flight changes via e-mail and phone, but the notifications not always happen – do not assume if you don’t receive any notifications than the flight is on time (as it almost never is anyway).
Almost all passengers on those flights are Vietnamese buying super-cheap tickets (as low as 99,000 VND – less than $5) months in advance, who cannot afford Vietnam Airlines and therefore are willing to spend long hours or even days at crowded airports waiting for their flight. If you do not belong into this category and care about your itinerary at all, it is not recommended to fly VietJetAir.
Personal experience: in Sep 2015 all three of my VietjetAir flights were delayed for 4, 9 and 14 hours respectively. While flights are much cheaper when purchased well in advance, once the supersaver fares are gone, the flights are only slightly cheaper (SGN-HAN for under 1,000,000 VND or US$50 versus US$70 on Vietnam Airlines).
Planes are Airbus 320s with western pilots. However, the seats are tiny, and there is almost no legroom. If you’re over 5″6 (160cm) make sure you book (and pay for) an exit row or premium seat, as otherwise you simply might not fit in.
You are also charged for checked baggage, and free carry-on allowance is only one piece not exceeding 7 kg. Your carry-on will be weighted during check-in, and if it exceeds 7kg, you cannot carry it on and must check it in for a fee.
Jetstar Pacific is another low-cost carrier. Formerly known as Pacific Airlines, it belongs now to the Jetstar Airways network. According to locals it is as delay-prone as VietjetAir.
- Air Mekong is a defunct domestic airline. Its license has been revoked in 2015.
The railway is the least developed transportation infrastructure in Vietnam. Most of the network was built during the period of French colonization and since then it has not been expanded. There have been various programs for rehabilitation in the last decade but the network still has many deficiencies. Nevertheless, trains are undoubtedly the most comfortable way to travel overland in Vietnam, although prices are more expensive than buses.
The network currently has 7 lines in operation, with a total length of 2,632 km.
- The North-South railway line connecting Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City
- The Hanoi-Lao Cai railway line
- The Hanoi-Quan Trieu railway line
- The Hanoi-Dong Dang railway line
- The Hanoi-Hai Phong railway line
- The Saigon-Quy Nhon railway line
- The Saigon-Phan Thiet railway line
The main railway line is the North-South line, also known as the Reunification Express, connecting Hanoi with Saigon station in Ho Chi Minh City. It has a total length of 1,726 km and there are two types of service, express (designated as SE) and local (designated as TN), with different durations depending on the number of stops. Each of the SE and TN coded trains end with a number. If the number is odd it travels from North to South; if it is even, it travels from South to North.
The fastest service runs between Hanoi and HCMC in almost 30 hours, stopping in the main cities: Nha Trang, Da Nang, Hue and Vinh. The duration is too long to complete the whole journey at once, so overnight hops are usually recommended. Besides the service Hanoi-Saigon, there are partial services for the most important sections of the North-South line, such as: Hanoi-Vinh, Hanoi-Hue, Hue-Saigon, Nha Trang-Tuy Hoa and Nha Trang-Saigon. Some segments of the North-South line pass near the coast or through a unique mountain scenery, like the Hai Van Pass between Da Nang and Hue. The train is definitely a good way to see the countryside of Vietnam.
Its is recommended that you book your train tickets in advance before coming to Vietnam, as it may difficult to buy them at station in the same day or even few days in advance. During peak holiday season, tickets for some specific dates may sell out the previous weeks.
By the end of 2014, the national railway operator Đường Sắt Việt Nam – DSVN (Vietnam Railways) launched the website dsvn.vn to sell tickets online. The website is available in Vietnamese and English. Customers can pay with credit card and receive their e-tickets by email ready for boarding.
Please note that the official website of Vietnam Railways is www.vr.com.vn and the official online ticketing site is dsvn.vn. Other websites such as vietnam-railway.com, vietnam-railway.net, vietnamrailways.net are actually travel agencies pretending to be Vietnam Railways, but these are not maintained or have any relationship with the state railway company.
Besides the official ticketing site there are some reputable websites that sell train tickets charging a fee or mark-up for their service. Since the railway operator introduced electronic tickets, these agencies will send the official e-tickets issued by Vietnam Railways as well.
As train tickets are now electronic, you should avoid any ticket agency or middleman that offers you to deliver the physical tickets to your hotel. Most of these will simply print the ticket issued by dsvn.vn system and charge an expensive amount for delivering in person instead of sending by email.
Finally, booking at the train station itself is generally a safe and practical way. Just prepare on a piece of paper with the destination, date, time, number of passengers and class and give to the staff at the ticket counter.
In case you book the ticket at the station please be aware of infamous ticket re-sellers who may approach and offer tickets for trains that are already sold out. Be advised that all electronic tickets issued by Vietnam Railways include the information of the passenger, name and ID/Passport number, so these are non-transferable. Train conductors often verify the tickets before boarding the train, so if the identify of the passenger doesn’t match the boarding will be denied.
For ticket changes and cancellations, you must process at the train station. According to Vietnam Railways policy, a ticket change requires a cancellation of the reservation and the issuance of a new ticket. The cancellation fee is 10%.
Soft sleeper rooms are 4 berth (2 berths by side, designated as T1 and T2), whereas hard sleepers are 6 berth (3 berths by side, designated as T1, T2 and T3). You can sit comfortably on a lower bed in a 4 berth room but in a 6 berth you will have to be very short in order to sit up straight.
Having a private travel agent book tickets will quite often result in you paying the agent for a soft-sleeper but the agent will book a hard-sleeper and you will not know until you board the train and it is too late to make changes. This is one of the most common scams!!! As soon as the agent handles you the tickets, identify the fare written on it and check that it’s the fare you paid for. Otherwise make a complain and request compensation!
AC soft-seat option is not too painful if you are travelling for about 15 hours! However, unless you are travelling in a sleeper car it is no more comfortable than buses. Just think about it in the context of a flight from London to Sydney which takes over 20 hours. On the train, you will have the freedom to move about, stand up & stretch, no seat-belt wear, a lot of legroom, etc. Seats are numbered in this carriage and it appears you cannot request a seat based on your preference. The reservation system will assign one for you at the time of buying it!
Don’t always believe the pictures of train carriages you see! The TN trains have the oldest and dirtiest cars and are the slowest therefore, are not recommended. The SE trains have slightly better quality cars but they too are old.
Luggage storage is very much restricted to the over-head racks in non-sleeper compartments. These racks would take a large case on wheels but you will have to lift it up there! You will see locals boarding trains with large cases or boxes and these usually end up in the passenger’s foot well (i.e. they put their feet on top of the case) or in the corridor. The latter is not a good idea especially on long distance trains since the meal & drinks trolleys go up and down the carriages frequently. In sleepers, your luggage has to be in your room. If you have a lot of luggage, a bus or plane would be a better option.
The chances are, your neighbours would want chat to you but it’s not uncommon in Vietnam.
By the way, if you are going on a long journey, do not forget to take a loo roll with you!
Long-distance bus services connect most cities in Vietnam. Most depart early in the morning to accommodate traffic and late afternoon rains, or run overnight. It is important to note that average road speeds are typically quite slow, even when travelling between cities. For example a 276 km (172 mi) journey from the Mekong Delta to Ho Chi Minh City by bus will likely take about 8 hours.
Public Buses travel between the cities’ bus stations. In bigger places, you often have to use local transport to get into the city centre from there. Buses are generally in reasonable shape, and you have the chance to interact with locals.
Vietnamese buses are made for Vietnamese people – bigger Westerners will be very uncomfortable, especially on overnight buses. Also, many Vietnamese are not used to riding on long-haul buses, and will sometimes get sick – not very pleasant if you are stuck on an overnight bus with several Vietnamese throwing up behind you.
Even if you are sometimes bus-sick, it is advisable to book a seat at the middle section rather than at the front of the bus. First, you will avoid viewing directly the short-sighted risks the driver is taking on the way. Second, you will somewhat escape the loud noise of unceasing honkings (each time the bus passes another vehicle, that is about every 10 seconds).
The long haul bus lines run from North to South and back on the only main road (QL1). Be aware that if you take a bus going further than your destination, the bus will drop you off at the most convenient crossroads for the driver and not, as you could have expected, at the bus terminal of your destination. For Hué, this crossroad is 13 km from the city centre and for Nha Trang, 10 km. At these crossroads, you’ll find taxis or mototaxis to get you to your hotel.
If you travel with a bicycle, negotiate the extra fee with the driver rather than the ticket counter before buying your ticket. The bicycle fee should be no more than 10% of the ticket price.
A scam that you may encounter is that after arriving at your location, guides will ask you whether you have booked a hotel. Even though you haven’t, say that you have and prepare the name of a hotel. If you say you have not booked one, they will charter a taxi for you and probably drop you at a hotel where they can collect commission. If you decide not to stay, things may get a little ugly, as they will demand that you pay the taxi fare, which they may quote as several times the actual fare for a ten minute ride.
One of the major bus companies is Hoang Long . They have an excellent website in english that provides all rate information as well as locations of bus terminals in all cities they service. You can bypass the travel agents altogether and head straight for bus station since the agent will simply sell you the very same ticket. If you choose to go the lazy route and use the travel agent at least reference the Hoang Long website for what the bus ticket should cost you. Do not give the travel agent a commission of more than a dollar.
Open Tour buses are run by a multitude of tour companies. They cater especially to tourists, offering ridiculous low rates (Hanoi to HCMC: US$20-25) and door-to-door service to your desired hostel. You can break the journey at any point and continue on a bus of the same company any time later, or simply buy tickets just for the stage you’re willing to cover next. If you’re not planning to make more than 3-4 stops, it might be cheaper to buy separate tickets as you go (ie Hanoi to Hue can be as low as US$5). Also the open ticket limits you to using only one company and does not guarantee you a seat on any bus. Most hotels and guest houses can book seats for any connection, although you’re better to shop around at travel agents, as prices will vary on any given ticket/bus company. Going to the bus company office may net you a commission-free fare. C
Although the bus company will usually be happy to collect you at your hotel or guest house, boarding at the company office will guarantee a choice of seats and you’ll avoid getting stuck at the back or unable to sit next to your travelling companions. The offices are generally located in or near the tourist area of town, and a short walk might make your trip that much more pleasant.
Since tour companies charge very little, they do make commission on their stop-offs which are often at souvenir shops, where you do not have to buy; they always have toilets and drinks and water available for purchase. The estimated time for a bus trip will not be accurate and may be an additional couple of hours sometimes, due to the number of stop offs. Collecting the passengers at the start of the journey can also take quite a while too. Always be at least half an hour early to catch the bus. Try not to drink too much water, as rest stops, especially for overnight buses, may be just somewhere where there are a lot of bushes.
WARNING – Be very careful of your possessions on the overnight bus, people (including bus employees) have been known to look through passengers bag’s and take expensive items such as iPods and phones and sell them on for profit. If you are travelling with an iPod DO NOT FALL ASLEEP WITH IT IN YOUR EAR, as the chances are it will be nowhere to be found in the morning. Simply get a padlock for your hand luggage and lock everything up in there before you go to sleep.
International driving licences are not accepted in Vietnam. The concept of renting a car to drive yourself is almost non-existent, and when Vietnamese speak of renting a car they always mean hiring a car with a driver. (After a short time on local roads with their crazy traffic, you will be glad you left the driving to a local.)
Since few Vietnamese own cars, they have frequent occasion to hire vehicles for family outings, special occasions, etc, and a thriving industry exists to serve that need. Vietnamese can easily hire anything from a small car to a 32-seat bus, for one day or several. Tourists can tap into that market indirectly by way of hotels and tour agents found in every tourist area. Additionally, international car brands have started to surface. Budget Car Rental, one of the largest car rental companies in the world, now offers chauffeur driven services in Vietnam. Hiring a small car for a day trip returning to the point of origin costs around US$60 for 8 hours (though the price changes with the cost of fuel.) (If you shop around and bargain hard for the lowest possible price, you will probably get an older, more beat-up car. If you are paying more than bare minimum, it’s worth asking what sort of car it will be, and holding out for something comfortable.) Few drivers speak any English, so make sure you tell the hotel/agent exactly where you want to go, and have that communicated to the driver.
It’s also possible to hire a car and driver for inter-city travel, at somewhat higher cost. A small car from Saigon to the beach resort of Mui Ne, a 4- or 5-hour trip depending on traffic, costs about US$70, and Dalat to Mui Ne about US$90. Long distance travel by car may be a good choice for several people travelling together, as it provides a flexible schedule and flexible access to remote sites. Keep in mind that long-distance road travel in Vietnam by whatever means (bus or car) is slow, with average speeds less than 50 km/hour. Highway 1, the north-south backbone of the country, usually offers but one lane each way for masses of buses, trucks, cars and motorbikes. In the frequent cities, towns and villages, locals often walk, slowly motorbike or push carts within inches of “fast” through traffic. Vietnamese newspapers frequently lament very-high rates of fatal accidents, many along this route.
Generally speaking, describing Vietnamese driving habits as atrocious would be an understatement. Road courtesy is non-existent and drivers generally do not check their blind spot or wing mirrors. Vietnamese drivers also tend to use their horn very often to get motorcyclists out of their way. In addition, most roads do not have lane markings and even on those that do, drivers generally ignore the lane markings. As such, driving yourself in Vietnam is not recommended and you should leave your transportation needs in the hands of a local.
Adventurous travellers may wish to see Vietnam by bicycle. Several adventure travel tours provide package tours with equipment. Most of the population gets around on two wheels, so it’s an excellent way to get closer to the people, as well as off the beaten path.
Bicycles can be rented cheaply in many cities, and are often a great way of covering larger distances. Good spots for cycling are Dalat, Hoi An, Hue and Ninh Binh. On the other hand, attempting to cycle in Hanoi or HCMC is virtually suicide without proper experience of traffic rules (or lack thereof, ‘proper experience’ in this case means understanding that everyone around you could potentially change direction at any moment.)
In cities like Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, parking bicycles on the sidewalks is not allowed, and you’ll have to go to a pay parking lot. 2000 dong per bike.
By motorcycle taxi
The xe ôm (literally ‘hugging vehicle’) is a common mode of transport for Vietnamese as well as tourists. They are widely available and reasonably cheap — about 10,000 dong for a 10 minute trip, which should get you anywhere within the city centre. Walk the city streets, and every couple of minutes a guy will flag your attention and say “You !! MotoBike?” Longer trips to outlying areas can be negotiated for 20,000-25,000 dong. Always agree on the fare before starting your trip. As with most things, a tourist will often be quoted an above-market price initially, and you need to be firm. If quoted anything over 10,000 dong for a short trip, remind the driver that you could take an air-con taxi for 15,000 dong so forget it. Occasionally drivers will demand more than the negotiated price at the end, so it’s best to have exact change handy. Then you can pay the agreed amount and walk away, end of discussion.
The 110-cc motorbike is the preferred mode of transport for the Vietnamese masses, and the large cities swarm with them. There are an estimated 37 million motorcycles in Vietnam and it’s common to see whole families of four cruising along on a single motorbike. In most places where tourists go, you can easily rent your own, with prices ranging from 100,000 to 160,000 dong per day. Before reading on, however, you should be aware that it is illegal for foreigners to ride a motorbike in Vietnam unless they are in possession of a temporary Vietnamese motorcycle licence, which in turn requires you to have a current licence issued by your home country/country of residence or an International Driving Permit.
To convert your licence or International Driving Permit into a temporary Vietnamese licence you must hold a Vietnamese residence permit of at least three months’ validity or a three-month tourist visa. In Hanoi you should apply to the Centre for Automotive Training and Mechanism, 83a Ly Thuong Kiet Street; in HCMC to the Office of Transportation, 63 Ly Tu Trong Street, District 1.
You should also be aware that if you ride unlicensed and have an accident in which a third party is injured or killed you could be subject to a term of imprisonment of 10-20 years, as well as paying a large sum in compensation to the victim or the victim’s family. Moreover, even if your travel insurance policy covers you for motorcycling (check the small print as many don’t), if you are injured when riding illegally the insurance company will not recompense you for medical attention, hospitalisation, evacuation to another country for hospitalisation or repatriation, the cost of which can run into tens of thousands of dollars.
Desk clerks at small hotels often run a side business renting motorbikes to guests, or have a friend or relative who does. Tour booths can usually do the same. In small towns and beach resorts where traffic is light, e.g Pho Quoc, it’s a delightful way to get around and see the sights, and much cheaper than taxis if you make several stops or travel any distance. Roads are usually decent, though it’s advisable not to ride too fast and always keep an eye on the road for the occasional pothole.
Riding in the big cities, especially Ho Chi Minh City, is a very different matter, and not advisable unless you are an experienced rider with a very cool head. Traffic is intense and chaotic, with a long list of unwritten rules that don’t resemble traffic laws anywhere else. “Right of way” is a nearly unknown concept. Riding in HCMC is like finding yourself in the middle of a 3-D video game where anything can come at you from any direction, and you only have one life. Expats who brave the traffic at all typically have an apprenticeship of a few weeks or months riding on the back of others’ motorbikes to learn the ways of the traffic, before attempting to ride themselves. Extreme caution is advised for short-term visitors.
Riding long distance in the countryside can also be harrowing depending on the route you take. Major roads between cities tend to be narrow despite being major, and full of tour buses hell-bent on speed, passing slow trucks where maybe they shouldn’t have tried, and leaving not much room at the edge for motorbikes.
Two main categories of motorbike are available to rent: scooters (automatic transmission); and four-speed motorbikes, the gears of which you shift with your left foot. The ubiquitous Honda Super Cub is a common 4-speed bike that has a semi-automatic gearbox ie no clutch so is relatively easy to ride. Other models may be fully manual and therefore you must also operate the clutch using your left hand – this takes a lot of skill and it’s all too easy to over-rev and pull a wheelie or stall the engine – if you end up with such a bike then practice releasing the clutch gently before hitting the roads! Dirt bikes are becoming popular for rent in Hanoi, other cities are not yet ready for these beasts. Rental agents tend to steer foreigners toward scooters if available, on the (plausible) assumption that they don’t know how to ride motorbikes that require shifting gears. Motorcycles of 175cc and above are only legal to ride if you make a connection with a Vietnamese motorcycle club.
The KUB cafe (Kustom Urban Bike) #12 ngõ 264 Âu Cơ, Tây Hồ, Hà Nội offers a great starting point for your journey by motorbike or a great place to end your trip in Vietnam, It’s run by bikers for bikers of all sizes. They give out great advise to help you on your journey by motorbike.
Most places you would want to stop have parking attendants who will issue you a numbered tag and watch over your bike. Sometimes these parking operations are overseen by the establishment you are visiting, and sometimes they are free-lance operations set up in places where a lot of people go. You will usually see rows of bikes lined up parked. Depending on circumstance, you might park the bike yourself, or just put it in neutral and let the staff position it. In all but rare cases you keep the key. Parking is sometimes free at restaurants and cafes (look for “giu xe mien phi”). Elsewhere, fees range from 2,000 to 5,000 dong.
Traffic police in the cities pull over lots of locals (often for reasons that are hard to discern), but conventional wisdom has it that they rarely bother foreigners due to the language barrier. Obeying the traffic laws is nevertheless advisable, especially if you have failed to obtain a Vietnamese licence. Cities like Ho Chi Minh have several one way street, and it is too easy to just steer into them unknowingly as there are limited signs warning you. BE SURE that if you break law, the police who are sneaking just at the right spot, will ask you to pull over and will fine you. They will also threaten to confiscate your bike. The quoted price for the fine may be negotiable, and being apologetic and friendly can get you back on road quickly, with a few dollars less in your pockets.
Helmets have also been required by law since December 2007, so if you don’t have one already ask your rental agent to provide you with one.
If buying a bike from a dealer, do not believe any “buy-back” guarantee. They are invariably a lie to encourage you to buy.
While slowly being supplanted by motorbikes, cyclo pedicabs still roam the streets of Vietnam’s cities and towns. They are especially common in scenic smaller, less busy cities like Hue, where it’s pleasant to cruise slowly along taking in the sights. Though the ride will be slow, hot and sometimes dangerous, you’ll generally need to pay morethan for a motorbike for the equivalent distance. On the plus side, some drivers (particularly in the South) are very friendly and happy to give you a running commentary on the sights. Cyclo drivers are notoriously mercenary and will always ask for a high price to start with. Sometimes they will also demand more than the agreed price at the end. (Japanese tourists, especially women, are most often targeted with this scam since they are more responsive to the threat that the driver will call the police and make trouble for them if they don’t pay as demanded.) A reasonable price is about 20,000 dong for up to 2 km (1.2 mi), and if the driver disagrees, simply walk away. (You won’t get far before that driver or another takes your offer.) Prices for a sight-seeing circuit with intermediate stops are more complex to negotiate and more subject to conflict at the end. If you plan to stop somewhere for any length of time, it’s best to settle up with the driver, make no promises, and start fresh later. Some drivers start with a very low rate to get you into their cycle and then if required to wait for you or otherwise vary the agreed price, bring out a typed up price list of their “standard rates” which are inflated beyond belief. If even slightly unsure ask the driver show you his list of charges. Then negotiate from that point or walk away. To avoid trouble, it’s also best to have exact change for the amount you agreed to pay, so if the driver tries to revise the deal, you can just lay your cash on the seat and leave.
You will be missing a big part of Vietnamese life if you do not spend some time on a boat. Do be careful though because many boats, although seaworthy, are not designed to first world standards. An example is the ferry from Phu Quoc to the mainland. This ferry has one tiny entrance for all passengers to board. When full, which it usually is, there are approximately 200 people on board. In the event of an accident, the chance of everyone getting out of the boat fast enough would be very small. The idea of an emergency exit does not exist.
Tour boats can be chartered for around US$20 for a day’s tour; but beware of safety issues if you charter a boat. Make sure the boat is registered for carrying Tourists and has enough life jackets and other safety equipment on board. Or you can book a tour through a tour company; but be aware that in Vietnam most Tour Agents charge whatever markup they want and therefore the tourist is often paying margins of 30-40% and the boat owner and operator (of anything from a van to a boat) are paid very little of the total amount!
Ha Long Bay is a famous destination for 1-3 day boat trips among its scenic limestone islands. Problem is that all the boats seem to visit the same places – and with high prices and poor quality boats and service real value is hard to come by! Many boats have a US$10 corkage fee, and forbid BYO alcohol, with on board alcohol and seafood about the same price as Europe on some boats! If there is rain, mist or low cloud, you may not see much. Try to pick a clear day.
Dozens of small family-operated boats ply the river in Hue taking visitors to the imperial tombs southwest of the city. This journey is long because the boats are slow, taking about 4 hours or so to make the journey in one direction.
Snorkel – fishing – lunch trips are available from Nha Trang, Hoi An, and Phu Quoc to nearby islands. In Central Vietnam, the North East monsoon season limits many sea boat tours during the months Sep-Feb; other parts of Vietnam seem less affected.
A 90-minute hydrofoil boat operates from Saigon to the seaside resort of Vung Tau for about 120,000 dong each way — the fastest way to reach the beach from the city.
River tours are perhaps the most interesting. A day-long boat trip forms the core of almost any tour of the Mekong region.
The official language of Vietnam is Vietnamese. Like Thai and Mandarin, Vietnamese is a tonal language that uses a change in pitch to inflect different meanings, and this can make it difficult for Westerners to master. While it is very different from Western languages, a traveler may be surprised to learn that the basic grammar is pretty simple. Verbs are static regardless of the past or future and parts of speech are pretty straightforward. The major difficulties lay on tones and certain sounds.
Vietnamese consists of 4 main dialects: the northern dialect spoken around Hanoi, the north-central dialect spoken around Vinh, the central dialect spoken around Hue, and the southern dialect spoken around Ho Chi Minh City.
While the Hanoi dialect is taken as the ‘standard’ and widely used in broadcasting, there is no de facto standard in the education system. Northerners naturally think that southern accent is for ‘hai lua’ (countrymen) and will always recommend you to be stick to the northern accent, but the choice of accents should depend on where you plan to live. If you are working in Ho Chi Minh City, the main economic centre of Vietnam, the southern accent is what you will hear every day.
For learners, the Latin alphabet is a relief. Unlike English, Vietnamese orthography reflects pronunciation closely, although using certain letters to represent different sounds and containing sounds not found in English.
The Vietnamese lexicon has been heavily influenced by Chinese languages. Some words are loanwords from Chinese, like hotel (khách sạn), children (nhi đồng), Communist party (đảng cộng sản); some are formed based on Chinese characters (roots), like representative (đại diện) or bird flu (cúm gà). Knowledge of the Chinese language will make it much easier to learn Vietnamese. Vietnamese is also full of loanwords from French and English from more recent times.
Although the Vietnamese people do appreciate any effort to learn their language, most seldom experience foreign accents. Learners may find it frustrating that no one can understand what they try to say. Staff in hotel and kids tend to have a more tolerant ear for foreign accents and it is not unheard of for a kid to effectively help translate your ‘Vietnamese’ into authentic Vietnamese for adults.
Google translate now supports Vietnamese and this can be downloaded to supported devices to work in “off-line” mode. The Vietnamese certainly appreciate the attempt to communicate, albeit non-verbally, in their own language. Be aware that not all can read though.
Besides Vietnamese, Ho Chi Minh City is home to a sizeable ethnic Chinese community, many of whom speak Cantonese. The more remote parts of the country are also home to many ethnic minorities who speak various languages belonging to the Mon-Khmer, Tai-Kadai and Austronesian language families.
Most Vietnamese youths learn English in school, so many young people have a basic grasp of English, but proficiency is generally poor. However, most hotel and airline staff will know enough English to communicate. Directional signs are generally bilingual in both Vietnamese and English.
Despite Indochina’s colonial history in which French was the medium of education, French is no longer widely taught in Vietnamese schools and aside from a few educated elite among the elderly, is much less useful than English when trying to communicate with locals. However in recent years, there has been a revival of the language in both the government and educated elite. In the big cities, some of the big international luxury hotel chains will have staff who are able to speak French and other foreign languages such as Mandarin, Japanese or Korean.
Download google translate to your phone or tablet. You can download a language pack so that it works offline. Note, whilst the majority (albeit not all – many cannot read) Vietnamese will understand what you type in, they often can’t type a reply that Google understands…
Simply walking to the nearest intersection and merely watching the driving antics is amazing. Keep watching and you may see TV’s and fridges and other unlikely objects impossibly balanced and secured with string on the back of a motorcycle. Watch how other people and locals cross the road.
You will need to observe the traffic etiquette before you cross the road. Some suggest avoiding crossing when trucks and lorry’s are around, as they are less agile than motorbikes.
If you happen to be around during to/from school hours, this is the best time to observe a glimpse of pushbikes, traditional clothing and ao dai mixing it with ‘normal’ traffic, even in the heaviest of torrential downpours. This is an example of the motivation of the school children!
As you travel about, you will find there are clusters of shops all selling similar goods – like 20 sewing machine shops together, then 30 hardware shops all together, 200 motorcycle repair shops in the same block. This makes for very competitive prices!
Be wary of watch shops selling original authentic fakes. Other fake watches are available but not as cheap as other surrounding countries. Pirated software is oddly very hard to find and not sold openly. However Movie DVD’s of differing quality are widely available from US$1, although not all may have English on them. The local post office will strictly not allow them to be posted abroad.
Vietnam claims Health tourism is on the rise. Hygiene, infection control and proper sterilization is very important, as drug resistant ‘bugs’ are always a concern, anywhere.
Motorbiking is popular with locals and tourists alike. Given that motorbikes are the main mode of transport in Vietnam, they can give a particularly authentic view of travelling through the country.
Renting or buying a bike is possible in many cities. Also consider Motorbike adventure tours, which involve being guided on multi-day drives to remote regions of the country. Most tours include accommodation, petrol, helmets, drivers and entry tickets to local places of interest. Guides usually speak good English or French and offer customised tours if desired. Motorbike Sightseeing Tours are similar but have a more local range specific to one city or area and can focus on food, shopping or sightseeing.
As mentioned in the work section below, many travelers like to spend some time working with the local community as a volunteer. Most of these programs require the volunteer to pay fees which cover meals, accommodation and which also allow the local organisations to fund social programs. These fees can vary from a hundred dollars a week to several thousand so it is a good idea to research thoroughly.
Besides, there are lots of options to do in Vietnam:
First: Take a cruise trip to visit Halong Bay. You can spend 1 day of Hanoi – Halong Bay cruise – Hanoi, or 2 days with 1 night over on cruise, or 3 days with 2 nights over on cruise. The transfer by road from Hanoi to Halong Bay takes about 4 hours. You may select seat in coach bus, or private transfer. Also, you may choose joining cruise, or private charter. There are hundreds of cruises in Halong Bay with wide range of standard from budget to luxury.
Second: Take a trip to Sapa. There are two ways: Sapa by train, and Sapa by road. For Sapa by train, take overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai, you will arrive Sapa in early morning, then ideally spend 2 days in Sapa, and take overnight train back to Hanoi when you will reach Hanoi in early morning in the following day. Please note that there is not day train between Hanoi and Lao Cai. For Sapa by road, it takes about 4 hours to transfer between Hanoi and Sapa town.
Third: Take a cooking class. Vietnamese cuisine is diverse and tasty and one of the many highlights of a visit to the country. There are lots of cooking class options in Hanoi, in Hoi An, and in Ho Chi Minh. You may take half day or full day cooking class. However, please select the class with market-visit arrangement so that you can experience the local market.
Forth: Take a river cruise trip in Mekong. Start from Ho Chi Minh City, you may end the cruise at Vinh Long, at Can Tho, at Chau Doc, even end at Phnom Penh or end at Siem Riep.
Fifth: Just relax and chill out wonderful beachside in Vietnam. Best destinations are Nha Trang, Mui Ne, Phu Quoc.
Sixth: Cu Chi Tunnels is a must-visit if you have a chance to come to Ho Chi Minh City. Crawling through the Cu Chi Tunnels is a unique experience of your Vietnam trip.
Seventh: It’s an off-the-beaten-track when you take a home-stay trip. Mai Chau Village in the north and home-stay in Mekong (Vinh Long, Can Tho) are among the bests.
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The national currency is the dong (internationally symbolised as VND, but written as đồng in Vietnam), which is difficult to find or exchange outside Vietnam; change money on arrival and try to get rid of any leftovers before leaving the country. Continuing inflation and a series of devaluations continues to steadily push down the value of the dong, with USD1 worth over 22,000 dong in May 2016. Banknotes are available in denominations of 500, 1000, 2000, 5000, 10,000, 20,000, 50,000, 100,000, 200,000 and 500,000 dong. In 2003, coins were also introduced in denominations of 200, 500, 1000, 2000 and 5000 dong, although these are rarely seen.
According to Vietnamese laws, foreign currency can be easily changed into dong but not vice versa. Exchanging dong is quite a complicated procedure requiring some time and patience. In order to change dong into another currency one should show one’s ticket as a confirmation of leaving Vietnam and one’s ID. These documents will be photocopied by the bank employees. Then, one fills out a special form stating the sum, purpose of the exchange and destination country. Not all Vietnamese banks perform exchange of dong, but Vietcombank is one that does.However, it is easy and fast to change dongs to foreign currencies with reasonable rates at Vietnam’s international airports.
Prices are widely advertised in US dollars, namely because of the unstable currency valuation of the dong, but unlike neighbouring Cambodia, for instance, payment is often expected in dong only, especially outside major tourist destinations. It is also easier to bargain with dong, especially since dollar prices are already rounded, and also because offering the price in dollars marks you as a “tourist” or “newcomer” – and as a potential target for scams/overcharging. Travel-related establishments (guesthouses, travel agencies, etc.) which quote their price in dollars, on the other side, may try to get from you slightly more if you wish to pay them in dong rather than dollars (e.g. calculating $1 as 21,000 or even 22,000 while the going rate was 20,800) – in this case it’s actually cheaper to pay them in dollars. Dollar bills in less than perfect condition may be rejected. USD2 bills (especially those printed in the 1970’s) are considered lucky in Vietnam and are worth more than USD2. They make a good tip/gift, and many Vietnamese will keep them in their wallet for luck. USD50 and US$100 notes get a higher exchange rate than notes of lower denominations.
Most visitors opt to keep the bulk of their cash in US dollars and exchange or withdraw dong as needed. There is often a considerable spread in dong buy/sell rates, and sometimes the same hotel has different rates for different services! In addition to banks and official exchange counters, you can exchange most hard currencies (Sterling, Yen, Swiss Francs, Euro etc.) at gold shops, often at slightly better than official rates. This is technically illegal, but enforcement is minimal. Hotels and travel agencies can also exchange money with differing exchange rates so look for the best rate.
For credit card payments, there is usually a 3% surcharge, so cash may be advantageous for large transactions.
Traveller cheques of well known companies are widely accepted, but usually a small fee is charged. Fees might also be the only thing that would keep you from getting cash advances on Visa- or MasterCard at most banks. Through both ways you can also get hold of US dollars, though there will be even higher fees. There are mentions in some popular travel books about Vietcombank not charging any commission fees to cash AMEX travellers cheques. However, this is not true any more.
ATMs are becoming more and more common and can be found in most bigger cities and every tourist destination. They will accept a selection of credit and bank-cards, including Visa, MasterCard, Maestro or Cirrus and several other systems. Typically withdrawals are limited to 2,000,000 dong per transaction, and will incur a 20,000 dong service fee.
Usually ATMs disclose the commission before the transaction.
ATMs with no charge:
- EXIMBANK allows up to 2,000,000 dong per transaction with no charge.
- MIlitary Bank (MB) up to 5,000,000 dong per transaction with no charge. These ATMs are the best to choose although it is not easy to find ATMs of this bank.
- SeABank allows (at least) up to 3,000,000 dong per transaction with no charge.
ATMs with a charge:
- Agribank allows up to 3,000,000 dong per transaction with a 22,000 dong charge.
- ANZ Bank allows up to 4,000,000 – 10,000,000 dong per transaction (15,000,000 dong per day) with a 40,000 dong charge.
- BIDV Bank allows up to 3,000,000 dong per transaction with a charge of 50,000 dong, or a 5% surcharge whatever is higher. These ATMs are the most prominent and worst to choose.
- Citi Bank allows up to 8,000,000 dong per transaction with a 60,000 dong charge.
- Techcombank allows up to 2,000,000 per transaction with a 66,000 dong charge. These are the second worst ATMs to choose.
- VIB Bank allows up to 2,000,000 per transaction with a 50,000 dong charge that is not disclosed until after the transaction is completed.
- Vietcombank allows up to 2,000,000 dong per transaction with a 20,000 dong charge.
The rates itself depend on your bank and card issuer.
There are branches of money transfer companies like Western Union, but this is always one of the more expensive ways to get money.
On most land borders connecting to Cambodia, China, and Laos there are freelance moneychangers to take care of your financial leftovers, but be assured they’ll get the better of you if you don’t know the going rate. Note for travellers departing from Hanoi airport: There are no money exchange establishments once you finish your immigration, so exchange your dong before you enter the departure hall unless you plan to shop.
Overcharging has long been an issue in Vietnam tourism. It can happen anywhere on anything from an hotel room, a ride on taxi, coffee, meal, clothing, basic grocery stuff. Your coffee suddenly becomes 100% more expensive and a restaurant may present you an English menu with inflated prices. A friendly local who spent 30 minutes talking with you may also feel like overcharging you on anything.
In many places overcharging happens through non-obvious means. A typical example would be to negotiate a room price in US dollars, but upon checkout a payment is demanded in dongs, using a very unfavorable conversion rate. Don’t discuss payment in currency other than dong without confirming first that this currency would be accepted. Note that in almost every case it is cheaper to negotiate in dong and then change your hard currency into dong.
Vietnamese hold a diverse view on overcharging but in general it is more common in Vietnam than other neighboring countries to see it socially acceptable to overcharge foreigners. They may argue inflated prices are still cheap and they may blame on the cheap cost of living which attracts a lot of backpackers with barebone budgets. According to this school of thought, if tourists complain about it, it’s because they’re stingy. Rich tourists should not have a problem being overcharged. It is the same mindset as “stealing a little from wealthy is okay” and is even seen as a form of social justice. Keep in mind that in Vietnam “wealthy” is defined as “has more money than me”, and is not limited to tourists, or to whites – for example, the people in Northern Vietnam routinely overcharge Vietnamese visiting from Southern Vietnam.
The good news is that standard price is much more common than early 90s. You will absolutely spoil your travel if you assume that everyone is cheating you, just try to be smart. In a restaurant, learn some common dish names in Vietnamese, insist that you need to read Vietnamese menu, and compare it. If owners argue that the portion of dishes in the English menu is different, it’s definitely a scam and move to other places. Learn some Vietnamese numbers and try to see how much a local pays a vendor. Also try basic bargaining tactics: Think how much it is back home, ask for big discount and walk away, pretending that the price isn’t right. Many products tend to be standardized and compare more.
Try to be as clear as possible on the agreed price. You may agree 20,000 dong with a “Xe Om” driver for a specific trip, but at the end he may claim you are due 40,000 dong. Then you pay 20,000 dong, smile and say goodbye, because you have a good memory.
Vietnam is still cheap by most standards: a month’s stay can start from USD250 using basic rooms, local food and open bus transportation.
Tipping is not expected in Vietnam, with the exception of bellhops in high end hotels. In any case, the price quoted to you is often many times what locals will pay, so tipping can be considered unnecessary in most circumstances. To avoid paying a tip when a taxi driver, for example, claims they don’t have small change, always try to have various denominations available.
With unbelievable abundance of fresh vegetables, herbs, fish and seafood, Vietnam has a lot to offer. It can be mentioned here a range of widely- admired dishes such as noodle served with beef or chicken( pho), spring roll, eel or snail vermicelli, crab fried with tamarind, crab sour soup, rice spaghetti, steamed rolls made of rice-flour, rice pancake folded in half (and filled with a shrimp, meat and soya bean sprouts)., etc.
Food sits at the very centre of Vietnamese culture: every significant holiday on the Vietnamese cultural calendar, all the important milestones in a Vietnamese person’s life, and indeed, most of the important day-to-day social events and interactions – food plays a central role in each. Special dishes are prepared and served with great care for every birth, marriage and death, and the anniversaries of ancestors’ deaths. More business deals are struck over dinner tables than over boardroom tables, and when friends get together, they eat together. Preparing food and eating together remains the focus of family life.
Vietnamese cuisine varies slightly from region to region, with many regions having their own specialties. Generally, northern Vietnamese cuisine is known for being bland while southern Vietnamese cuisine is known for being spicy.
At the same time, the Vietnamese are surprisingly modest about their cuisine. (And old proverb/joke says that a fortunate man has a Western (French) house, Japanese wife, and Chinese chef.) High-end restaurants may serve “Asian-fusion” cuisine, with elements of Thai, Japanese, and Chinese mixed in. The most authentic Vietnamese food is found at street side “restaurants” (A collection of plastic outdoor furniture placed on the footpath), with most walk-in restaurants being mainly for tourists. Definite regional styles exist — northern, central, and southern, each with unique dishes. Central style is perhaps the most celebrated, with dishes such as mi quang (wheat noodles with herbs, pork, and shrimp), banh canh cua (crab soup with thick rice noodles) and bun bo Hue (beef soup with herbs and noodles).
Many Vietnamese dishes are flavored with fish sauce (nước mắm), which smells and tastes like anchovies (quite salty and fishy) straight from the bottle, but blends into food very well. (Try taking home a bottle of fish sauce, and using it instead of salt in almost any savory dish — you will be pleasantly surprised with the results.) Fish sauce is also mixed with lime juice, sugar, water, and spices to form a tasty dip/condiment called nước chấm, served on the table with most meals. Vegetables, herbs and spices, notably Vietnamese coriander (rau răm), cilantro (rau mùi or rau ngò), mint (rau húng) and basil (rau húng quế), accompany almost every dish and help make Vietnamese food much lighter and more aromatic than the cuisine of its neighboring countries, especially China.
Vietnam’s national dish is phở (pronounced like the fu- in funny, but with tone), a broth soup with beef or chicken and rice noodles (a form of rice linguini or fettuccine). Phở is normally served with plates of fresh herbs(usually including Asian basil), cut limes, hot chiles and and scalded bean sprouts which you can add in according to your taste, along with chili paste, chili sauce, and sweet soybean sauce. Phở bò, the classic form of phở, is made with beef broth that is often simmered for many hours and may include one or more kinds of beef (skirt, flank, tripe, etc.). Phở gà is the same idea, but with chicken broth and chicken meat. Phở is the original Vietnamese fast food, which locals grab for a quick meal. Most phở places specialize in phở and can serve you a bowls as fast as you could get a Big Mac. It’s available at any time of the day, but locals eat it most often for breakfast. Famous phở restaurants can be found in Hanoi. Generally speaking, the phở served at roadside stalls tends to be cheaper and taste better than those served in fancier restaurants.
Street side eateries in Vietnam typically advertise phở and cơm. Though cơm literally means rice, the sign means the restaurant serves a plate of rice accompanied with fish or meat and vegetables. Cơm is used to indicate eating in general…even when rice is not served (ie: Ăn cơm chưa?- Have you eaten yet). Though they may look filthy, street side eateries are generally safe so long as you avoid undercooked food.
In rural and regional areas it is usually safest to eat the locally grown types of food as these are usually bought each day from the market. It is not uncommon, that after you have ordered your meal a young child of the family will be seen running out the back towards the nearest market to purchase the items.
Most restaurants/cafes in Vietnam will have a bewildering variety of food available. It is very common for menus to be up to 10-15 pages. These will include all types of Vietnamese food, plus some token western food, possibly some Chinese and maybe a pad thai as well. It is generally best to stick with the specialty of the area as this food will be the freshest and also the best prepared.
Be advised that when dining in a restaurant, it is common practice for the wait staff to place a plastic packet (stamped with the restaurant’s name) containing a moist towelette on your table. They are not free; they cost between 2,000 – 4,000 VND. If you open it, you will be charged for it. Also, peanuts or other nuts will be offered to you while you are browsing the menu. Those are not free, either. If you eat any, you will be charged.
Vegetarian food is quite easy to find anywhere in Vietnam due in large part to the Buddhist influence. These restaurants will run from upscale to street stall. Basically any Vietnamese dish with meat can be made vegetarian with the abundance of fake meats. Besides the Buddhist influence of two vegetarian days a month, Cao Dai people eat vegetarian 16 days, and followers of the bizarre Quan Yin method eat vegan daily. Look for any sign that says Com Chay or simply remember the phrase An Chay.
Coffee, baguettes, and pastries were originally introduced by the French colonials, but all three have been localized and remain popular contemporary aspects of Vietnamese cuisine. More on cà phê below, but coffee shops that also serve light fare can be found in almost every village and on multiple street corners in the bigger cities. Bánh mì are French bread sandwiches: freshly baked white bread baguettes filled with grilled meats or liver or pork pâté, plus fresh herbs and vegetables. Most pastry shops serve a variety of sweets and quick foods, and are now owned by Vietnamese.
If you like seafood, you may find heaven in Vietnam. The ultimate seafood experience is traveling to a seaside village or beach resort area in the south to try the local seafood restaurants that often serve shrimp, crab, and locally-caught fish. Follow the locals to a good restaurant: the food will still be swimming when you order it, it will be well-prepared, very affordable by Western standards, and often served in friendly surroundings with spectacular views.
All Vietnamese restaurants are controlled by government, and some are fully owned by government. Most restaurants’ opening times are 10:00 to 22:00, some open at 07:00 and some at 06:00 or 08:00. In 24-hour restaurants, there will be two prices, the price is normal from 06:00 to 22:00, and doubled from 22:00 to 06:00. For example, rice (com) usually costs 10,000 dong, but if you order after 22:00, the price will be 20,000 dong. This project is made by government to discourage people from eating late. Some dishes are not served after 22:00.
In many restaurants, you will usually get “errored cuisine” translated dishes, such as fried fish with lemon sauce instead of fish sauce, or rice with tea instead of chili, and some dishes are not available for one month long without any announcement.
To know which restaurants and dishes are highly rated by locals, try downloading popular food apps among locals such as MenuX, Foody, or Lozi on app stores. They are available in English and work with both Android & iOS.
Note: restaurants often offer you a wet napkin (khăn) at the end of a meal to wash you hands. Be aware that using this incurs an extra charge on your bill.
The legal purchasing age of alcoholic beverages is 18. However, there is no legal drinking age.
Do not drink tap water, it’s a game of Russian Roulette. Drink only bottled water. Watch out for ice in drinks. Factory-made ice is generally safe, but anything else can be suspect.
Drinking in a Vietnamese bar is a great experience. One of the interesting things is that during the day, it is almost impossible to see a bar anywhere. Once the sun goes down though, dozens seem to appear out of nowhere on the streets.
Don’t miss out on bia hơi, (literally “air beer”), or draught beer made daily. It’s available throughout Vietnam, mostly from small bars on street corners. Bia hoi bars will give you the opportunity to relax drinking in a typical Vietnamese bar surrounded by the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Every traveler can easily find these bars to experience what the locals are enjoying.
The beer is brewed daily and each bar gets a fresh batch delivered every day in plastic jugs. It’s a very light (3% alcohol) refreshing lager at a fraction of the cost of draft or bottled beer in the Western-style bars. Bia hoi is not always made in sanitary conditions and its making is not monitored by any health agency. Though fun for the novelty factor, this beer may produce awful hangovers for some. For those people, sticking with bia chai (bottled beer) might be more advisable.
The most popular beer (draft, bottle or can) among the Southern Vietnamese is Saigon Do (Red Saigon). For the Northern Vietnamese Bia Hanoi (Hanoi beer) is the most popular brand, whereas Central Vietnamese prefer Festival beer or Bia Huda. 333, pronounced “ba-ba-ba” is a local brand, but it’s somewhat bland; for a bit more flavor, look for Bia Saigon in the green bottle and a bigger bottle than Bia Saigon Special. Bia Saigon is also available as little stronger export version. Bière Larue is also good, and you can find local brands in every larger city.
It’s regular practise for beer in Vietnam to be drunk over ice. This means that the cans or bottles need not be chilled. If you are drinking with Vietnamese people it is considered polite to top up their beer/ice before re-filling your own drink. It is also considered necessary to drink when a toast is proposed…mot, hai, ba, do (one, two, three, cheers). Mot tram, mot tram implies you will drink 100%.
Beer consumption is dominated by bottled beers and bia hoi but there are also plenty of microbreweries in Vietnam. You can find microbreweries in Ho Chi Minh City, Nha Trang, Mui Ne, Hai Duong, Hai Phong and Hanoi. Most of them make Czech styled beers with imported malt and hops. The marketing of these breweries is more or less non-existent so they can be hard to find, but the full list can be found online. The price of a 300mL glass of beer is normally VND30,000. Most of the breweries serve one black and one blond beer, are small and produce about 3-4 thousand litres a month. There are more than thirty microbreweries in Vietnam which is more than in many other countries in the region. Recently a group from Colorado has set up the Pasteur Street Brewing Company (http://www.pasteurstreet.com/) in Saigon. They serve great American style microbrews with a local ingredients adding a nice twist.
Wine and liquor
Vietnamese “ruou de” or rice alcohol (ruou means alcohol) is served in tiny porcelain cups often with candied fruit or pickles. It’s commonly served to male guests and visitors. Vietnamese women don’t drink much alcohol, well at least in public. It’s not recommended for tourists.
Dating back to French colonial times, Vietnam adopted a tradition of viticulture. Dalat is the center of the winelands, and you can get extremely good red and white wine for about USD2-3, however this is very hard to find. Most wine is Australian that is served in restaurants and you will be charged Australian prices as well making wine comparatively quite expensive compared to drinking beer or spirits.
Coconut wine – Rượu dừa – ruou dua :ive This is special Vietnamese wine that has the acidity and alcohol concentration of grape wine, but the taste and fragrance of coconut. It makes an attractive drink because it is served in the whole coconut and sipped through an aluminum tube. It is made by placing traditional ingredients such as sticky rice and pure sap into a whole coconut to ferment. It is believed the copra (the white meat) of the coconut can purify aldehydes that are typically found in rice wine which can cause hangover symptoms such as headaches and tiredness when consumed in excess. So you can feel more free to drink to your drinking partners health!
Rice spirit and local Vodka is incredibly cheap in Vietnam by western standards. Russian Champagne is also quite available. When at Nha Trang, look for the ‘all you can drink’ boat trips for around US$10-15 for an all day trip and party with on board band.
Coconut water is a favourite in the hot southern part of the country. nước mía, Sieu Sach or sugar cane juice, is served from distinctive metal carts with a crank-powered sugar cane stalk crushers that release the juice. Another thirst-quencher is the fabulous sinh tố, a selection of sliced fresh fruit in a big glass, combined with crushed ice, sweetened condensed milk and coconut milk which should cost 20,000 dong at maximum. You can also have it blended in a mixer. You could place any fruit-type after the word sinh tố – e.g. sinh tố bơ (avocado smoothie) or sinh tố dứa(pineapple smoothie). If you prefer to have orange juice, you won’t use the word sinh tố but nước (literally: water) or nước cam if you would like to have an orange juice. Juices are usually without condensed milk or coconut milk.
Another popular drink among locals and tourists alike is the traditional Cà phê sữa đá] (Vietnamese Iced Coffee). At its simplest, this drink is made with coarsely ground dark roast coffee individually brewed with a small metal French drip filter called a cà phê phin. The coffee then takes it time slowly releasing drops of hot coffee into a cup filled up with 2-3 tablespoons of creamy thick sweetened condensed milk. Once the brewing is done the metal lid is removed from the filter, poured over ice and mixed with the condensed milk.
Do be careful when drinking locally prepared coffee as the locals tend to drink it incredibly strong with about 4 teaspoons of sugar per cup. There is also the Cà phê đá which is the same black coffee without the milk.
Lodging is not an issue in Vietnam, even if you’re travelling on a pretty tight budget. Accommodation in Vietnam ranges from scruffy US$6-a-night dorm accommodation in backpacking hostels to world-class resorts, both in large cities and in popular coastal and rural destinations.
Even backpacking hostels and budget hotels are often far cleaner and nicer than in neighboring countries (Cambodia, Thailand, Laos), and cheap hotels that charge US$8-10 for a double room are often very clean and equipped with towels, clean white sheets, soap, disposable toothbrushes and so on.
In hotels costing a few dollars more (US$12 per room upwards, more in Hanoi) you can expect an en suite bathroom, telephone, air conditioning and television. As with hotels elsewhere in the world, mini-refrigerators in Vietnamese hotels are often stocked with drinks and snacks, but these can be horribly overpriced and you would be much better off buying such items on the street. Adequate plumbing can be a problem in some hotels but the standard is constantly improving.
It is a legal requirement for all hotels to register the details of foreign guests with the local police. For this reason they will always ask for your passport when you check in. The process usually only takes a few minutes, after which they will return your passport. However, because non-payment by guests is by no means unknown, some hotels retain passports until check-out. If a place looks dodgy then ask that they register you while you wait and take your passport with you afterwards. It is helpful to carry some photocopies of your passport as well as Vietnam visa, which you can then hand over to the hotel, insisting if necessary that your actual passport is not in your possession but rather at a travel agency for purpose of visa extension (which is a legitimate situation). Alternatively, you can try to extend an advance payment rather than allow them to keep your passport.
Most hotels throughout Vietnam now have high-speed Internet access. Facebook, Twitter, and other social networks are blocked but a quick google search can explain how to easily bypass this ban; a useful hotel booking engine hotels-in-vietnam, too. The use of computers is generally free, although some hotels levy a small charge.
The more high-end hotels offer a multitude of amenities; such as elaborate buffets with local cuisine, spa treatments, local sightseeing packages, etc.
Hanoi now has some hostels for families called Hanoi Family Hostels. Rooms here are large and with more beds for children.
Homestay accommodation is easily booked through travel agents. However, some tourists are disappointed to learn that the “homestay” they booked is really a commercial hotel or the accommodation is situated in a separate building from the family home.
Responsible hotels, green hotels or claimed to be so hotels are increasing in Vietnam. There is no standard or accreditation scheme but this is a positive sign that Vietnamese people are paying more attention to the impact of tourism on environment. By saying “yes” to responsible accommodation, you can help protect the local nature, environment and community without without sacrificing your enjoyment. Eco-friendly hotels can be found in northern mountainous areas as well as some Lodges in Mekong Delta , a Vietnam that many dream about with lush rice paddies, endless waterways and laid back villages.
If you want to meet local people, stop by a school. In Ho Chi Minh City (aka Saigon), visit the American Language School, where you’ll be welcomed enthusiastically and invited to go into a class and say hello. You’ll feel like a rock star.
The Vietnamese love to meet new people, and teachers welcome the opportunity for their students to meet foreigners.
An excellent novel set in modern-day Vietnam is “Dragon House” by John Shors. Dragon House is the story of two Americans who travel to Vietnam to open a centre to house and educate Vietnamese street children.
Former BBC reporter in Hanoi, Bill Hayton, has written a good introduction to most aspects of life in Vietnam – the economy, politics, social life, etc. It’s called Vietnam: rising dragon and was published in May of 2010.
You can volunteer as an English teacher through many volunteer organisations. However, if you have a TEFL/TESOL qualification and a degree then it’s very easy to find paid teaching work. Without qualifications it’s also possible to find work, but it takes more patience to find a job, and often there are concessions to make with payment, school location and working hours(weekends). Most teaching jobs will pay $15 to $20 an hour. There are also many paid volunteering organisations which allow you to help local communities, such as: Love Volunteers, i-to-i and Global Volunteers.
Rural Vietnam is a relatively safer place for tourists than urban Vietnam. Low level street crimes like bag snatching regularly occur in major cities like Hanoi and Saigon. Few instances of knife attacks during robberies have been reported.
Avoid fights and arguments with locals (especially groups). Keep in mind that yelling is highly insulting to Vietnamese, so the reaction of a Vietnamese in such a situation may be unexpected.
As a foreigner, Vietnamese expect you to act a certain way in their country. You should respect the general law of the land. Most of these arguments can be avoided easily by showing general courtesy, and tolerating cultural differences that may seem rude to you.
Touristy areas and high population cities in Vietnam are areas to watch for thieves, pickpockets, and scammers. They especially target foreigners. Pickpockets and motorbike snatching have found their home especially in Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Nha Trang. Thieves on motorbikes will snatch bags, mobile phones, cameras, and jewelery off pedestrians and other motorbike drivers, and it is a crime committed so regularly that even local Vietnamese are common victims. Avoid dangling your bags along traffic roads. Talking on your mobile phone next to cars on the road and putting your bag on the front basket of a motorbike will tempt a robber. It could happen day or night, in a crowded road with hundreds of drivers.Pickpockets are well organized and operate in groups.
If you travel by motorbike, be aware that crooks can cause serious security issues. Reports of people claiming that “your motorcycle is on fire” and offering to repair it or passers-by that throw nails at foreigners on motorcycles are frequent.
Also infamously common are thefts on popular beaches. Never leave your bag unattended on beaches. In hotel rooms, including five star ones, reports that belongings are stolen have been heard regularly by hotel staff, especially when it comes to small personal items of high value (cash, digital cameras, etc), so take your cash or put it in a security deposit box, and the same with small digital equipment. There are many places where leaving larger electronics like laptops in the room is perfectly fine. Also, hotel employees are known to try to pick padlocks as soon as they see one (<- the validity of this statement is questionable). The most effective preventative step is to only book hotel rooms at places that have a good reputation and reviews.
One of the tricks employed by con men is targeting tourists traveling on bikes by deliberately crashing into tourists bikes to blame them to extort money.
Show special caution when drinking with Vietnamese men.
Vietnam probably has the most scams per square foot, and significantly more than in surrounding countries. One certain trait of Vietnamese scams is that there seems to be no limit to what people would try to overcharge you. It is pretty common for the scammers to attempt to overcharge you by ten or fifty times and sometimes even more.
A very common one is when the organizers claim that the bus broke down and the tour operators force people to pay huge amounts for crummy hotels “while the bus is repaired”. Be careful when going to a shop or restaurant that doesn’t have prices written down. Before eating a meal, ask for the price or you may be in for a surprising bill. When you embark on a tourist tour, be independent: know where you are at all times and be aware of alternatives; the tour might suddenly fall apart.
The police are probably the worst crooks of them all. They are known to steal items from people (both locals and tourists) and ask for a steep bribe to get the item in return. Also, don’t count on them for any help if you are victim of crime.
Most scams in Vietnam are in transport, hotel prices and the two-menus system practiced by some restaurants.
Hotel owners may tell you that the room price is 200,000 dong. However, when checking out, they may insist that the price is USD20, charging you almost a double. Another trick is to tell customers that a “room” is a few dollars, but following day they’ll say that price was for a fan room only and it’s another price for an air-con room. These days, legitimate hotel owners seem to be aware of these scams and are usually willing to help by writing down how much the room is per person per day (in US dollars or dong), if it has air con or not. Staff of legitimate hotels also never ask for payment from a guest when they check in. Watch out if they insist that you should pay when you check out but refuse to write down the price on paper.
Some restaurants are known to have two menus, one for local people and another one for foreigners. The only way to deal with it is to learn a few Vietnamese phrases and insist that you should be shown only the Vietnamese menu. If they hesitate to show you the local menu, you better walk away. On rare occasions restaurants have two (English) menus with different prices. Taking pictures of all menus might be excessive, but if you suspect that the food had a different price when ordered, stand your ground. We usually memorize the prices of what we order and pay exactly that. The owners rarely make a big deal out of it because they know they cheated. Otherwise ask for the police.
Many taxi drivers in Saigon and Hanoi install rigged meters, charging up to 2 to 8 times more. The best way to reduce your chances is by taking a taxi from reputable companies such as Mai Linh (+84 38 38 38 38) and Vinasun in Saigon and Mai Linh and Hanoi Tourist for Hanoi (but note that taking these companies is not a guarantee, and travelers have had problems even with reputable companies). If you don’t know what a reasonable fare is, it is generally a bad idea to agree on a price in advance. Spoken for Saigon, the two recommended companies have quite reliable meters. Vinasun taxis usually have notices explaining that the meter value should be multiplied by 1000 to obtain the fare. Some drivers will take advantage of the ambiguity, and tourists’ lack of knowledge about what the fare should be, so it is best to have things clearly written out.
Taxis are abundant in Saigon – and you can get a taxi at any time of the day or (night). You can also call a Taxi, and usually people at call centers will be able to either converse in English, or will pass on the phone to someone who can. Rule of thumb to detect scammers: if the taxi doesn’t have the fare charges written, or drivers name and photo on the dashboard, immediately ask the taxi to stop and get out. It’s a definite scam.
When leaving the airport, the taxi driver may insist that you pay the airport toll. He might not be very forthcoming about the price and, if you give him cash, he will pay the toll and pocket the rest.
Many taxi drivers in Sai Gon and Ha Noi try to overcharge thin faced, just arrived, and gullible travelers. You should consult some guidebooks and travel forums to prepare yourself for those petty scams and to learn more about how to avoid them. The airport toll fee in Saigon is 10,000 dong (as of July 2012) – this is also written, along with the fare, on the dashboard of the taxi. You can confidently say “airport toll only 10,000” and refuse to pay anything else such as parking etc. (unless there were more toll roads in between). Usually, the driver will not argue it out. In Saigon, a trip to Backpackers Street should not cost more than 250,000 dong from the airport in any case.
In several other cities of Vietnam, such as Dalat, Hoi An, Nha Trang etc. – DO NOT travel by meter. The airports are as far as 30-40km from these places and meter will cost you from 500,000 to 650,000 dong. However, you can either take a bus from the Airport to the city center, or pre-negotiate rates with taxis from 200,000-300,000 dong. Refer to individual sections for details. Pay attention to sides of taxi – usually a rate for Airport drop is written on the door itself.
Taxi and cyclo drivers may claim that they don’t have change when accepting payment for an agreed-upon fare. The best way to handle this is to either carry smaller bills or be ready to stand your ground. Generally the driver is only trying to get an extra dollar or so by rounding the fare up, but to prevent this scam from becoming more popular it is advised to stay calm and firm about the price.
When you meet an over friendly cyclo driver who says, “never mind how much you would pay” or “you can pay whatever you like at the end of the trip”. He even tries to show you his book of comments from international tourists. This kind of driver has to be a scammer. If you still want to use his service you should make it clear about the agreed price and don’t pay more than that. Just be clear what you are willing to pay; the cyclo drivers are just trying to make a living.
Corruption is a big problem in Vietnam and locals are convinced that the police are not to be trusted. Police officers may stop motorcycle riders for any reason including missing insurance papers or a missing driving license, and fine you around USD$20 for each offense (the average traffic fine should only be about USD$5-$10). Remember to stand your ground and all officers are required to write all traffic violations in their notebook and give you a receipt with directions to pay to the station (not the officer). If you have a cell phone, threaten to call your embassy and he may back down. However, you might just find it easier to pay the fine and get on your way.
Immigration officers are known to take bribes. During the early Doi Moi (the reform in the 90s), bribes could be a few US dollars or a few packs of 555 cigarettes. Today, although some officers still seem to feel okay at taking bribes, it is absolutely risk-free and acceptable if you don’t bribe.
The international monitoring group Transparency International has rated Vietnam as one of the most corrupt nations in Asia.
Prostitution is illegal in Vietnam, but it is nevertheless widespread. Due to conservative culture it is less visible; there is no street prostitution or go-go clubs. However it thrives both in traditional establishments (massage parlors and spas, nightclubs, hourly rentals) and in some places you would never expect, such as hair salons. Rickshaw drivers also offer prostitutes to tourists at every tourist destinations, and in less reputable hotels the staff may offer them as well.
Especially pay special attention if you want a massage in a tourist area. In legitimate massage establishments, a man is typically massaged by a male masseur. You can ask for a male masseur, and while most tourist-serving establishments won’t have one, it will inform them that you’re really looking for a massage (and not for other activities).
The age of consent is 18. Vietnam has laws on the books with penalties up to 20-40 years in prison for sexually exploiting women and children, and in the case of underage prostitution, those laws are indeed enforced. Also, several nations have laws that allow them to prosecute their own citizens who travel abroad and engage in intercourse with minors.
The first discovery for many tourists who just arrive in Vietnam is that they need to learn how to cross a road all over again. You may see a tourist standing on the road for 5 minutes without knowing how to cross it. Traffic in Vietnam is a nightmare. Back home, you may never witness the moment of crash, seeing injured victims lying on the road, or hearing the BANG sound. Staying in Vietnam for more than a month, you will have fair chance of experiencing all these.
Roads are packed. Some intersections in main cities (Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City) have traffic lights patrolled by police.
To cross the road, don’t try to avoid the cars, let them avoid you. Step confidently forward, a little more, and you will see motorcycle drivers to slow down a bit, or go to another way. Make your pace and path predictable and obvious to other drivers. Don’t change your speed or direction suddenly. Then move forward until you hit your destination. The best strategy is just to keep walking forward at a comfortable pace.
The simplest way, if available, is to follow a local, stand next to them in the opposite side of the traffic (if you get hit, he will get it first) and he will give you the best chance of crossing a road.
If you are injured, don’t expect that local people are willing to help for even calling an ambulance because it is not free. Make sure you tell local clearly that you will pay the ambulance fee. Hospitals will also not accept your admission unless you prove that you can pay the bill.
Highways are also risky with an average of 30 deaths a day and some locals will not even venture on them if not in a big vehicle (car or bus). Taking a bicycle or motorcycle on highways is an adventure for risk takers, definitely not for a family with children.
Petty crime in night clubs can happen. Avoid quarreling with local people because drunken Vietnamese can be violent. Clubs are full of prostitutes looking for their admirers but be aware that they may also steal your wallet and mobile phone, etc. Walking very late by yourself on the streets in the tourist area is often unsafe.
Avoid asking the cab drivers for recommended nightspots. Most cab drivers are paid by KTVs and lounges to bring in foreign tourists. Usually when you walk in they will tell you a set of pricing which seems reasonable; but when you check out the bill will include a number of extravagant charges. Do your homework beforehand and tell the cab drivers where you want to go. Insist on going to where you want to go despite their persuasion. There are a number of reputable pubs and disco around. Try going to those which have a preponderance of foreigners.
Much of Vietnam’s ecology has been severely damaged and very little wildlife remains, let alone anything dangerous to humans. Venomous snakes (such as Cobras) may still be common in rural areas but virtually everything else has either gone extinct or exist in such small numbers that the chances of even seeing them are remote. Tigers may exist in very small numbers in remote areas, but this is yet to be proven. Saltwater crocodiles once thrived in southern Vietnam but have been locally extinct for at least 20 years, although a re-introduced population of Siamese crocodiles thrives at a lake in Cat Tien National Park.
Tropical diseases such as malaria, dengue fever and Japanese encephalitis are endemic in rural Vietnam. Malaria isn’t as much a concern in the bigger cities such as Ho Chi Minh and Hanoi, but always remember to take mosquito liquid repellent with you. It may be very useful, especially in the countryside and crowded neighbourhoods.
Thanks to much improved hygiene conditions in recent years, cooked food sold by street vendors and in restaurants, including blended ice drinks, are mostly safe. Just use your common sense and follow the tips under the Traveller’s diarrhoea article and you’ll most likely be fine.
Do not drink tap water, it’s a game of Russian Roulette. Always drink only bottled water.
The US “Centers for Disease Control and Prevention” (CDC) also have recommendations for vaccines and staying healthy when travelling in Vietnam.
Souvenir shops in Vietnam sell lots of T-shirts with the red flag and portraits of “Uncle Ho.” Many overseas Vietnamese are highly critical of the government of Vietnam you may want to consider this before wearing such T-shirts in their communities back home! A less controversial purchase would be a nón lá (straw hat) instead.
It’s common to be stared at by locals in some regions, especially in the central and northern side of the country, and in rural areas. Southerners are usually more open.
Asian women traveling with non-Asian men could attract attention, being considered lovers, escorts or prostitutes by some people and may even be harassed or insulted. These attitudes and behaviors have lessened but have not yet disappeared.
The most surprising thing about the topic of the Vietnam War (the American or Reunification War, as it is called in Vietnam) is that the Vietnamese do not bear any animosity against visitors from the countries that participated, and in the South many Vietnamese (especially older Vietnamese involved in the conflict or with relatives in the war) appreciate or at least respect the previous Western military efforts against the North. Two-thirds of the population were born after the war and are quite fond of the west. That said, there are some attractions which present a very anti-American viewpoint on the war’s legacy, which may make some feel uncomfortable.
Be sensitive if you must discuss past conflicts. Well over 3 million Vietnamese died, and it is best to avoid any conversations that could be taken as an insult to the sacrifices made by both sides during the wars. Do not assume that all Vietnamese think alike, as many Vietnamese in the South are still bitter about having lost against the North.
The official government relationship with the PR China has deteriorated significantly recently as the two countries are locked in a territorial dispute over maritime borders; stay neutral and be aware.
You can see people wearing the traditional Vietnamese garment – Aodai (áo dài, “long dress”)- which has a strong bond with Vietnamese tradition, history, culture. It is a long silk dress which is split on its side. For centuries, it has been acknowledged that Aodai is the representative of the country and people. Vietnam is somewhat influenced by the Chinese including their way of dressing due to four thousand years being under Chinese reign. Tourists going to Vietnam can easily catch sight of Vietnamese wearing Aodai in solemn ceremonies such as the death anniversary of Hung Kings, Quanho Bac Ninh, Huong Temple celebration, New Year’s Eve and other important festivals. Aodai was originally designed for both men and women, but it is mostly preferred by women due to its slender, elegant design – a design which is definitely suitable to honor Vietnamese women. Aodai is usually worn along with Nonla (nón lá, “leaf hat”), or a cloth worn over one’s head, known as a Khandong (khăn đống, “silk hat”). There are various versions of Aodai such as miniraglan Aodai, turtleneck Aodai, etc. The “Miss Aodai” pageant is one of the most popular beauty contests featuring the traditional costume. It aims to preserve the traditional Vietnamese costume, as well as introduce it to audiences around the world. Tourists who come to Vietnam can watch this show at the Ho Chi Minh City palace of culture. In addition, if you wish to have your own Aodai, here are some recommended branches that you may want to take a look at: Thai Tuan Ao dai, Lien Huong Ao Dai. These branches can provide you with the most authentic Aodai.
Fire Brigade 114,
General Information 1080
Landline numbers in Hanoi and HCMC have a sequence of eight numbers, others have seven.
- Vietnam international code: +84
- Hanoi area code : (04)
- Ho Chi Minh area code : (08)
Telephone bills are 30% to 40% cheaper if dialed with 171 or 178 services.
- Domestic call : 171 (178) + 0 + Area code + Number.
- International call : 171 (178) + 00 + Country code + Area code + Number.
Since hotels and guesthouses often charge higher for telephone calls, try to find a post office or any reliable public service.
There are many mobile networks with different codes:
- Vinaphone: 91, 94, 121, 123, 125 (GSM 900)
- Mobifone: 90, 93, 122, 124, 126 (GSM 900/1800)
- Viettel: 98, 97, 165, 166, 167, 168, 169 (GSM 900)
- SFone: 95 (CDMA)
- Vietnamobile: 92 (CDMA)
- EVN Telecom: 96 (CDMA)
- Beeline: 199, 99 (GSM 900)
You can buy a SIM card in every shop selling mobile phones, or showing their network’s brands. The standard price is no higher than 75,000 dong, but foreigners are often charged 100,000 dong.
Prepaid account charges vary from 1,700-2,500 dong per minute. Recharge cards are available in denominations of 50,000, 100,000, 200,000 and 500,000 dong.
Roaming onto Vietnam’s GSM networks are possible with foreign mobile phones, subject to agreements between operators.
Internet access is available in all but the most remote towns. Internet cafes are available in most tourist spots and rates are fairly affordable, ranging from 2,000-10,000 dong per hour. Connection speeds are high, especially in the big cities. Many hotels and restaurants provide free Wi-Fi or terminals for their guests.
If you bring your own phone, several providers offer mobile internet services (EDGE/3G) services for surprisingly affordable prices. For example, Viettel offers unlimited (albeit slow) 3G internet for 70,000 dong per month as of June 2014 after purchase of sim card. Mobifone has better speeds with a comparable “unlimited internet” pricing plan. Having mobile access to the internet for such a cheap price is really a no-brainer, as it opens the door to finding directions when you are lost, looking up hotel reviews, verifying reasonable pricing on services, using translation websites, and so on. This can really take the edge off of traveling to a new city.
Internet censorship is applied to a small number of internet services. In the past, Facebook and Skype have been blocked. As of July 2014, Facebook still continues to be blocked in certain areas such as Hanoi (which can be bemusing as Facebook is one of the de facto social networking websites used by locals). A quick Google search for solutions should help you bypass restrictions on banned sites quite easily. Other sites such as Gmail, YouTube, and Wikipedia have not been affected.